Lower volume developers with a clean lift

[satchel]

I ask because someone here made a statement about Schwarzkopf developers lifting more than others. Poster was very correct. Since then I have been using it in 3% for on scalp touch up clients with Joico cream lightener.

But when I tried the same Schwarzkopf volume 10 (3%) with Framesi cream lightener it made it swell a bit. I could still work with it, but the swelling was annoying.

I have seen developers with some blue in them, but those are 20 volume and up.

Really loving on scalp low and slow. I do remember from past Schwarzkopf powder bleach swelling.

Any recs for a volume 10 developer that has clean lift?

Thank you!!

 

[jameswhite]

Hey my friend put that post. Its like they say 10vol in schwarzkopf for going darker permanent but it dont it lifts. I told the rep she told me I was an idiot. The rep was so rude she then told me when I asked about mixing the additives to the toners to make pastels said that is stupid no one would want that. And now look how popular they are.

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

Going darker when mixed with Igora not when mixed with bleach!

 

[jameswhite]

Yup I mixed with igora why would bleach darken?

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

The OP is talking about using 3% with bleach, your saying it darkens with tint.

I'm not sure we are all talking about the same thing.

3% darkens with tint but mixed with bleach can lift up to 7 levels (depending on bleach)

 

[jameswhite]

So 10vol is for going darker with tint. But the tint lifted and gave root glow with a natural 6 on a lvl 8 natural

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

Glowing as in lighter than an 8?

Or just still lighter than the ends? Did you just use a 6-0 and 3%.

I find you get a difference in this case when working on hair that's been previously coloured with OTC dye or.

Or if the hair is fine you can get a 'see through' result.

Maybe adding some 5 would have been better.

 

[jameswhite]

She had a 7 in wella kp through the ends 6 weeks ago took fine. It was a level 8 but really gold.

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[AcidPerm]

All levels of peroxide will lift even very low levels as it's opens the cuticle layer.

 

[jameswhite]

But it said 10vol for darker permanent only so what happened its what it said. thats what the rep told me and a 6 turned into a gold lvl 8 so what can I do

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[VIVA.GLAM]

Are you talking about using Schwarzkopf developers with different colour brands?

 

[AcidPerm]

I would use 10 vol when going darker (unless on grey hair) but I'd say it's depositing colour rather than darkening the hair as technically, that's what the intention is.

If you're finding the end result is much lighter, there are a number of possible reasons for this including if the hair is very porous. In which case, a lot of the colour molecules are washing out when you initially rinse the hair so fewer darker molecules will give it a lighter effect.

 

[jameswhite]

Are you talking about using Schwarzkopf developers with different colour brands?

Used igoŕa tint and developer

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[vividamnesia]

Odd....I have found developers pretty standard from any brand as all 10v is formulated @ 3%,20v @6% etc all over the world. Only difference Ive encountered is cream based developer vs. clear based developer with 10v clear based seems stronger/aggressive over cream + 10v. I always let bleach stand a few mins to "swell" after mixing to gauge consistency for desired purpose.....I also find that mixed bleach has a time frame for optimal application window & once time is passed,it puffs up weirdly. I always work in small batches of chemicals & mix up fresh batches often. Sometimes heat even off clients heads or environmental flux causes chemicals to sweat or swell.

I experience more oddities in chems sourced from the chem product over the developers. CHI bleach & color is the only chem line I have used without any change in formula consistency awesome for precision colors close together right to scalp but not good as it needs complete saturation application needing thinner weaves as only surface hair gets colored & the bleach seems weak in lifting.

Maybe the powder to dev ratio is off? I measure consistency as greek yougurt-pudding for fine hair & no fat yougurt-runs off brush moderately for saturating coarser hair....guess its all personal prefrence

 

[jameswhite]

Hiw do you deal with rude reps

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

Hiw do you deal with rude reps

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

Get a new one.

 

[AcidPerm]

Tell them directly you're not going to buy their products anymore?
Or
Ring their Head Office and tell them unless they send you a new rep, you're not going to buy their products anymore?

:wink2:

 

[ColourGirly]

It's an educator, so explain your concerns to the sales person, say your really disheartened with the product - then watch them flap up and down at the thought of loosing your business.
Then they will send someone else.

 

[jameswhite]

Yeah then had the nerve to ask my bf to be a model for them. He was like no. And he said I wouldn't want your skills used on me when you didnt even know how to cover natural hair. So I redid her regrowth with 6.12 and perfect I should have done what I thought instead of her wella conversion formula. Then it said the developer must have been left open. Which had come straight out of a order so I said well replace it then it came in the order and she changed subject. What a bitch.

Sent from my SM-G900I using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

instead of her wella conversion formula.

Eek......do you mean she used one of those horrific conversation charts rather than analysing what is actually on the hair??

I thin this means your 6-12 was the flatter choice which matched better, there wasn't probably enough kick in the 6-0 to darken the 2 levels- I don't believe it was the 3% at all but the colour choice.

Also technically 2 levels darker or more is a pre pig so what you've done technically is apply two applications of colour so getting the right end result.

Although I don't believe with igora you would need to in this case if that makes sense.