Quantcast

Million Dollar Smiles

SalonGeek

Help Support SalonGeek:

The Geek

Grand Master Geek
Staff member
Administrator
Premium Geek
Joined
Jan 9, 2003
Messages
13,264
Reaction score
666
Location
Leeds, UK
Do your smile lines need an orthodontist?
Here's a walkthrough on creating consistently beautiful smiles that has helped countless technicians make smile line fast and easy every time. :D

An orthadontist for those smiles

A smile line can either make or break the appearance of a Forever French enhancement.
The purpose of a beautiful smile line not to follow the clients natural free edge line; it is to elongate and ‘stretch’ the pink appearance of the nail bed. Flat smile lines widen the appearance of the nail whilst overly deep smile lines can make the nail look ridiculous.

:!: The most aesthetically perfect smile line is to mirror the cuticle line. :!:

In this demonstration, I am using Retention+ and Perfect Color White powder. My brush is the Master Series Pro Styler I affectionately call ‘Bob’.

The bead.

Ensure a medium wet mix ratio. The bead should have a texture similar to an orange peel.

If it is too wet... The white will be more translucent and the bead harder to control.

1step1.jpg

Placement

I place (not squish) the bead on the tip away from where I want the smile line to be. As soon as I start to press and smooth the bead, it will move forward.

If I placed the bead too far to begin with, the smile would begin on the second knuckle. And that friends... would kind of suck.

1step2.jpg

Waiting...

After placing the bead down, I wait 2 seconds for the bead to slowly ‘melt’. This will allow the bead to become slightly firmer and help in moving it where it needs to go.​

I avoid wiping Bob while I work. Doing this drains most of the monomer out of his belly making it more difficult to keep the bead at a medium wet consistency. Most techs wipe at this point to have a firmer feeling bead. Waiting 2 seconds will achieve the same result without sacrificing long-term workability.

Pressing...

The technique I use consists of small, gentle presses back and forth across the smile line. I avoid trying to perfect one side of the nail at a time, as I would end up injecting most of my liquid into the first half of my smile as the other side sets up. I also avoid smashing and dragging the product. The bead will smooth out and do most of the work for you if you don’t beat it into submission.

I begin by placing the flag of Bob about 1/3rd of the way down the bead while gently pushing in a 45-degree angle toward the points of the smile (away from the centre).

1step3.jpg



Walking and smoothing

Once I am about 80% of the way to my first point, I walk Bob back to the centre of the nail and repeat the last step on the other side.​

Once the bulk of the line has been drawn, I smooth out Zone 1 for even distribution and minimal filing.

1step3b.jpg 1step4.jpg

Tickling and sharpening

At this point, the Zone should be about 70% set.​

I walk along the smile line with the flag of my brush to ensure that the edge is sharp. This helps to prevent pink from Zone 2 making the white murky looking.

Note that the flags of my brush do not go over the line itself.

I turn my Bob to its side, and use the points of his flag to ‘tickle’ in the points of the smile.
If attempted too soon, you can run a risk of loosing sharpness and clarity.

If necessary, I walk back along the smile, pushing the surface slightly forward to sharpen any soften edges.

1step5.jpg 1step5b.jpg 1step6.jpg

Back bobbing

If it looks as if I had a freaky fit while creating the smile, or if I need to perfect it, I simply drain any monomer from Bob, and ‘tuck’ away any unwanted squiggles or soft edges.
I avoid using a wet brush otherwise I increase the risk of overexposure to my client.


I always try to create the smile with technique, not by Back-Bobbing

1step7.jpg



Tips for nice smiles
  • Hold your Bob like a pen, not a chopstick.
  • Balance yourself by making sure both of your hands somehow remain in contact with one another during your application.
  • Keep the angle of Bob at a downward (so your mimicking the angle of the nail) as you work.
  • Keep a tiny margin between the flag of your brush and the smile line as you are pushing it into place. If the flag of your brush is right on the smile line, you will create a rougher line.
  • Avoid pressing with the belly of the brush… you wont see the line you are making and you will most likely be saturating your clients’ skin with monomer.
  • Always work evenly from side to side. This will help keep the Zone pliable and evenly saturated.
  • Use a gentle touch to ‘guide’ the line into place.
  • Use smaller beads and add more if needed in a ‘layered’ fashion to avoid that lovely marbleising effect.
  • Eat five servings of fruits and vegetables.
1step8.jpg

nJoy
 
Last edited:

matthew5

New Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern Alberta, Canada
Just wanted to let you know that your tutorial on ' Million Dollar Smiles', was extremely helpful to me!!! I have been a nail tech for about 8 years, but have been away from it for close to 5 of those years. Having 5 boys can do that to you!! Anyway, when I decided to get back into business, I really needed a refresher, and I was fortunate enough to find your website. Thanks for the help and the info!!!

Pam
 

Laura

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2003
Messages
67
Reaction score
0
Location
Notts
Talking about smile lines.... would you believe I had a client ask me not to make the white smile! She actually wanted me to go straight across to make them look more square. After years of being programmed to make them smile beautifully I found this really difficult. I did what she requested of course but explained why we made them smile and why (I think) they look so much better that way. Of course, the customer is always right...or not! :eek:
 

Sioux

New Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire, UK
Found this tutorial really good. It has helped me remember what I was taught on Creative Conversion Course last week! The pictures are good - I would like to see a slide show of them?
 

courtenay

Guest
Joined
Sep 24, 2004
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Oxford
Really usefull tutorial to refer to , all pics enlarge when you click on them, except the smile line ones. Would be fabulous to see these clearer if possible. Great site though Thanks!!!
 

The Geek

Grand Master Geek
Staff member
Administrator
Premium Geek
Joined
Jan 9, 2003
Messages
13,264
Reaction score
666
Location
Leeds, UK
Ack! Just caught on to what you were saying :)
I fixed two of the links (which were pointed incorrectly) however one of them (step 5) is only a thumbnail! I have to go scour my system to see if I can find the original large one :o

Anyhooo... the others are fixed. Thanks for noticing!
 

Nina Louise

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
Farnborough, Hampshire
Million Dollar smile lines tutorial is fab! Thank you for taking me step by step!
 

kas67

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
94
Reaction score
2
Location
london
thank you, thank you, thank you,brilliant I now have a beautiful set of forever french(only on one hand though I'm crap at doing my right hand!)pictures were great.



ps.great web site i'm addicted!
 

jussy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
225
Reaction score
9
Location
Cheshire.
your article on how to perfect a smile is invaluable at this present time. I am taking the cnd masters exam in Feb. I dont feel ready yet but I have been told that as from March 2005, cnd will be introducing a fabric day to the "masters".
Fabric and I have never hit it off, and never will!! The last time I tried to familiarize myself with the product,(some 10 years ago) I ended up in hospital because I ignored an unknown allergy to solvents and it gave me asthma!! I only get asthma now if I constantly use adhesives or if near super glue or such like.
so thank you for your onfo. I will keep on trying the way you suggested. and will keep you posted on the masters day!! but if I fail.. I wont!! Jus x
 

b.hansford

New Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2003
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Sidcup, Kent
Thank you so much for the tutorials, I do find them helpful and often refer especially when I am having a brainless day!! It would be really helpful to either have larger pictures or even better a DVD or Video as I'm not perfect and I want to be.
 

miat33

New Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2005
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
EARL SHILTON, LEICESTERSHIRE
fantastic info on 'smile lines', although i do have a dilema:- if a client has short nail beds, eg. nail biter, but wanted the french look, if you follow the natural smile line it would look terrible. But if you were to extend the nail bed you can see the natural smile line through the pink in zone 2. Hou can i hide this???? helllppp....
 

Jaffacake

Malamute Geek!
Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Messages
3,308
Reaction score
91
Location
Basildon
you would use flawless pink to hide the natural nail bed making the nail bed appear longer and putting the smile line where it ought to be.... hth x
 

Katelisa

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
3,059
Reaction score
189
Location
UK
what does 'flag' mean??

i.e "the flags of my brush"
 

Trinity

Brush Slayer Geek
Premium Geek
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
5,723
Reaction score
3,482
Location
Brighton, East Sussex
Katelisa said:
what does 'flag' mean??

i.e "the flags of my brush"
The 'flags' of your brush are the dark coloured ends of the hairs - put flags in a search and there's a fab thread by Geeg and Jaydee which explains it really well

Trin
xx
 

onyx

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
SUDBURY SUFFOLK
Brilliant tutorial. I will keep practising and hopefully one day I will produce some million dollar smiles. Tutorial was easy to understand and the pictures helped.
 

michark

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Location
canada
great tutorial on 'smile lines'thank you so much.it was great to see some pictures.my trouble is getting the smile just deep enough.sometimes they end up on the flat side.i need to go higher up on the sides.
practice! practice! practice!
 

poohhemiv8

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
west sussex
;) that was a great help i having been doing nails for long and any help is great.:lick:
The Nail Geek said:
Do your smile lines need an orthodontist?
Here's a walkthrough on creating consistently beautiful smiles that has helped countless technicians make smile line fast and easy every time. :D

An orthadontist for those smiles

A smile line can either make or break the appearance of a Forever French enhancement.
The purpose of a beautiful smile line not to follow the clients natural free edge line; it is to elongate and ‘stretch’ the pink appearance of the nail bed. Flat smile lines widen the appearance of the nail whilst overly deep smile lines can make the nail look ridiculous.

:!: The most aesthetically perfect smile line is to mirror the cuticle line. :!:

In this demonstration, I am using Retention+ and Perfect Color White powder. My brush is the Master Series Pro Styler I affectionately call ‘Bob’.

The bead.

Ensure a medium wet mix ratio. The bead should have a texture similar to an orange peel.

If it is too wet... The white will be more translucent and the bead harder to control.
[BREAK]
Placement

I place (not squish) the bead on the tip away from where I want the smile line to be. As soon as I start to press and smooth the bead, it will move forward.

If I placed the bead too far to begin with, the smile would begin on the second knuckle. And that friends... would kind of suck.



Waiting...

After placing the bead down, I wait 2 seconds for the bead to slowly ‘melt’. This will allow the bead to become slightly firmer and help in moving it where it needs to go.​

I avoid wiping Bob while I work. Doing this drains most of the monomer out of his belly making it more difficult to keep the bead at a medium wet consistency. Most techs wipe at this point to have a firmer feeling bead. Waiting 2 seconds will achieve the same result without sacrificing long-term workability.

Pressing...

The technique I use consists of small, gentle presses back and forth across the smile line. I avoid trying to perfect one side of the nail at a time, as I would end up injecting most of my liquid into the first half of my smile as the other side sets up. I also avoid smashing and dragging the product. The bead will smooth out and do most of the work for you if you don’t beat it into submission.

I begin by placing the flag of Bob about 1/3rd of the way down the bead while gently pushing in a 45-degree angle toward the points of the smile (away from the centre).

[BREAK]
Walking and smoothing

Once I am about 80% of the way to my first point, I walk Bob back to the centre of the nail and repeat the last step on the other side.​

Once the bulk of the line has been drawn, I smooth out Zone 1 for even distribution and minimal filing.


Tickling and sharpening

At this point, the Zone should be about 70% set.​

I walk along the smile line with the flag of my brush to ensure that the edge is sharp. This helps to prevent pink from Zone 2 making the white murky looking.

Note that the flags of my brush do not go over the line itself.

I turn my Bob to its side, and use the points of his flag to ‘tickle’ in the points of the smile.
If attempted too soon, you can run a risk of loosing sharpness and clarity.

If necessary, I walk back along the smile, pushing the surface slightly forward to sharpen any soften edges.


Back bobbing

If it looks as if I had a freaky fit while creating the smile, or if I need to perfect it, I simply drain any monomer from Bob, and ‘tuck’ away any unwanted squiggles or soft edges.
I avoid using a wet brush otherwise I increase the risk of overexposure to my client.


I always try to create the smile with technique, not by Back-Bobbing

[BREAK]
Tips for nice smiles
  • Hold your Bob like a pen, not a chopstick.
  • Balance yourself by making sure both of your hands somehow remain in contact with one another during your application.
  • Keep the angle of Bob at a downward (so your mimicking the angle of the nail) as you work.
  • Keep a tiny margin between the flag of your brush and the smile line as you are pushing it into place. If the flag of your brush is right on the smile line, you will create a rougher line.
  • Avoid pressing with the belly of the brush… you wont see the line you are making and you will most likely be saturating your clients’ skin with monomer.
  • Always work evenly from side to side. This will help keep the Zone pliable and evenly saturated.
  • Use a gentle touch to ‘guide’ the line into place.
  • Use smaller beads and add more if needed in a ‘layered’ fashion to avoid that lovely marbleising effect.
  • Eat five servings of fruits and vegetables.


nJoy
 

poohhemiv8

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
west sussex
That was really useful i have only being doing nail for about 6 months and not long turned 30 so any help and tips for this old girl is really great:lick:
 

xxGemseyxx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2006
Messages
439
Reaction score
9
Location
Hemel Hempstead, Herts
excellent!!!! well done.
 

pinkgenie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2006
Messages
321
Reaction score
3
Location
Hampshire UK
Thanks for a fab tutorial! I have just started my course and have been finding the smile line quite tough, although I did not expect to be able to do it perfect first time, this tutorial has given me some great tip's!! I cant wait to get home and start practicing!!!

Thanks again
 

Latest posts

Top