My bad bleach job

[donatas]

Last summer I did a double process bleach job on my hair, I am a natural level 2N (dark brown by Clairol's level system). I was wanting to achieve a TRUE platinum blonde. This was before I began going to cosmetology school by the way but I knew a little bit about color. I used Clairol Basic White powder bleach with 40 volume developer and processed this with heat for 30 minutes and came out to the pale yellow stage. I then toned with a mixture of Clairol Creme Toner. I used 11/2 ounces of 301D White Beige (a blue based white blonde) and half an ounce 323D Extra Light Platinum (supposedly a true platinum blonde but this has a VERY strong violet base) Clairol claims that this is a blue-violet based shade but I had previously toned my hair with this shade alone and wound up with purple hair. I found out that a little bit of violet is good for toning out the small amount of yellow the bleach leaves behind while the blue based 301D is perfect for adding a hint of silver for that true platinum tone. Anyway I processed the 301D/323D mixture with 20 volume developer for 5 minutes and viola! I had the platinum blonde I wanted. Well 4 weeks later my roots started to show but I could never do a root touch-up on myself without overlaping the back (I still can't.) I decided to go to JCPenney and have a hairdresser take care of it. Big mistake, I wound up with orange-gold roots after TWO applications of bleach. I asked the stylist what exactly he had done. She had used Matrix La Bleach with 20 volume developer after I specifically told her that my hair is very difficult to bleach out. At this point my roots were pumpkin orange. After this she decided to mix a batch with 30 volume and all this did was lift most of the orange out. WTF??? What idiot thinks that they can take almost black hair to white with such a weak formula?? Why is it that stylists are SO afraid to use 40 volume? Of course I understand that it is very damaging but in this case it was absolutely required. I don't get it, what am I missing?

I didn't pay the stylist, I looked like Cyndi Lauper and I had sores burned into my scalp. After those healed I just figured "oh what the h**" and did a full head application with my formula. Trouble was my hair was way too pourus to hold onto the toner anymore, not to mention totally fried.

Why aren't students being trained for situations like this?? I've just completed my color course and all they've learned us to do is to bring out a more natural looking blonde with highlights. What about the the occasional client who doesn't want the natural look? What about dark haired clients who's hair has to be foiled at least 75 percent to appear blonde? Don't tell me that this isn't as traumatic to the hair as a full head bleach out.

Sorry to rant but the mis-education of stylists today really makes me see red.

 

[pretty-in-pink]

Last summer I did a double process bleach job on my hair, I am a natural level 2N (dark brown by Clairol's level system). I was wanting to achieve a TRUE platinum blonde. This was before I began going to cosmetology school by the way but I knew a little bit about color. I used Clairol Basic White powder bleach with 40 volume developer and processed this with heat for 30 minutes and came out to the pale yellow stage. I then toned with a mixture of Clairol Creme Toner. I used 11/2 ounces of 301D White Beige (a blue based white blonde) and half an ounce 323D Extra Light Platinum (supposedly a true platinum blonde but this has a VERY strong violet base) Clairol claims that this is a blue-violet based shade but I had previously toned my hair with this shade alone and wound up with purple hair. I found out that a little bit of violet is good for toning out the small amount of yellow the bleach leaves behind while the blue based 301D is perfect for adding a hint of silver for that true platinum tone. Anyway I processed the 301D/323D mixture with 20 volume developer for 5 minutes and viola! I had the platinum blonde I wanted. Well 4 weeks later my roots started to show but I could never do a root touch-up on myself without overlaping the back (I still can't.) I decided to go to JCPenney and have a hairdresser take care of it. Big mistake, I wound up with orange-gold roots after TWO applications of bleach. I asked the stylist what exactly he had done. She had used Matrix La Bleach with 20 volume developer after I specifically told her that my hair is very difficult to bleach out. At this point my roots were pumpkin orange. After this she decided to mix a batch with 30 volume and all this did was lift most of the orange out. WTF??? What idiot thinks that they can take almost black hair to white with such a weak formula?? Why is it that stylists are SO afraid to use 40 volume? Of course I understand that it is very damaging but in this case it was absolutely required. I don't get it, what am I missing?

I didn't pay the stylist, I looked like Cyndi Lauper and I had sores burned into my scalp. After those healed I just figured "oh what the h**" and did a full head application with my formula. Trouble was my hair was way too pourus to hold onto the toner anymore, not to mention totally fried.

Why aren't students being trained for situations like this?? I've just completed my color course and all they've learned us to do is to bring out a more natural looking blonde with highlights. What about the the occasional client who doesn't want the natural look? What about dark haired clients who's hair has to be foiled at least 75 percent to appear blonde? Don't tell me that this isn't as traumatic to the hair as a full head bleach out.

Sorry to rant but the mis-education of stylists today really makes me see red.

hey hun im training at college for my level 2 hairdressing im currently a platinium blonde the way i do it is use... wella - blondor white powder and then welloxen perfect 6% peroxide as you can put that on the scalp i sometimes have to do two applications then i put a "Schwarzkopf Live Color XXL Absolute Platinum" you can buy the schwarzopf from superdruge,asda etc....i put it all over which bring it nice and white/blonde maybe this is worth trying

x

 

[user 28883]

I always though bleaching very dark hair was more colour correction, well esp if its coloured dark.

You were lucky to just get sores - I have a bald patch from bleached highlights 5 years ago, it was done in a hairdressers.

I wont use bleach if I can help it, I hate the stuff.

 

[minky]

Last summer I did a double process bleach job on my hair, I am a natural level 2N (dark brown by Clairol's level system). I was wanting to achieve a TRUE platinum blonde. This was before I began going to cosmetology school by the way but I knew a little bit about color. I used Clairol Basic White powder bleach with 40 volume developer and processed this with heat for 30 minutes and came out to the pale yellow stage. I then toned with a mixture of Clairol Creme Toner. I used 11/2 ounces of 301D White Beige (a blue based white blonde) and half an ounce 323D Extra Light Platinum (supposedly a true platinum blonde but this has a VERY strong violet base) Clairol claims that this is a blue-violet based shade but I had previously toned my hair with this shade alone and wound up with purple hair. I found out that a little bit of violet is good for toning out the small amount of yellow the bleach leaves behind while the blue based 301D is perfect for adding a hint of silver for that true platinum tone. Anyway I processed the 301D/323D mixture with 20 volume developer for 5 minutes and viola! I had the platinum blonde I wanted. Well 4 weeks later my roots started to show but I could never do a root touch-up on myself without overlaping the back (I still can't.) I decided to go to JCPenney and have a hairdresser take care of it. Big mistake, I wound up with orange-gold roots after TWO applications of bleach. I asked the stylist what exactly he had done. She had used Matrix La Bleach with 20 volume developer after I specifically told her that my hair is very difficult to bleach out. At this point my roots were pumpkin orange. After this she decided to mix a batch with 30 volume and all this did was lift most of the orange out. WTF??? What idiot thinks that they can take almost black hair to white with such a weak formula?? Why is it that stylists are SO afraid to use 40 volume?

Because 40 volume with bleach cannot safely be used on the scalp

Of course I understand that it is very damaging but in this case it was absolutely required. I don't get it, what am I missing?

I didn't pay the stylist, I looked like Cyndi Lauper and I had sores burned into my scalp.

doesnt this tell you something ?

After those healed I just figured "oh what the h**" and did a full head application with my formula. Trouble was my hair was way too pourus to hold onto the toner anymore, not to mention totally fried.

Why aren't students being trained for situations like this?? I've just completed my color course and all they've learned us to do is to bring out a more natural looking blonde with highlights. What about the the occasional client who doesn't want the natural look? What about dark haired clients who's hair has to be foiled at least 75 percent to appear blonde? Don't tell me that this isn't as traumatic to the hair as a full head bleach out.

as it is an on the scalp technique 40 volume with bleach would burn the scalp,

Sorry to rant but the mis-education of stylists today really makes me see red.

Your Tutors dont teach such risky procedures
as it would be against manufactures instructions
plus it would break insurance policy rules

Hello donatas and welcome to salon geek ,
I have answered a few of your questions that are highlighted in red

also I have seen a couple of your other posts ,
and you do seem to be pretty knowledgable in colouring
so I'm guessing you would already know about using different bleach formulas on very dark hair,
but there are some pretty strict manufactures guidelines out there too,

anyways here are some other links on bleaching very dark hair
hth

http://www.salongeek.com/hair-geek/86129-searching-hair-colorist-help.html

http://www.salongeek.com/hair-geek/86080-bleach-brand.html

http://www.salongeek.com/hair-geek/86041-can-anyone-recommend-salon-miami.html

 

[natsel]

I have never used 40 vol on the scalp because I was taught how damaging bleach can be as far as using it on the scalp was concerned especially if you burnt a client you could have legal action taken against you I have had a few clients come into the salon and say they have been to previous salons and had there scalps burnt due to having bleach on the scalp with 40 vol and under heat to ..
I guess its just peoples preferences what they do personally.. the salon I work for dont allow 40vol on the scalp so if anyone comes in and asks for it we explain that we dont do it and why and nine times out of ten people understand .
anyway goodluck with your hair

 

[minky]

Hi Delia ,
sorry if Im going off the thread here a bit
and although I would never use 40 vols with bleach on the scalp
I really lurve the stuff lol x :hug:
I am in my element when I'm using bleach ,
I find its so versatile I actually love looking for new bleach products and trying them all out
I tried out the the shwarzkopf sachets recently but they were too gritty for me and still swelled in the foils

I love using Wella Blondor
mainly for off the scalp techniques as I find it doesnt seem to swell as much as others in the foils
I even add a touch to my high lift tints now and again if needed when I am foiling
preferebaly with the clear high lift tints without the tone
as it can give it a bit of a kick and also remove any tint build up on the hair ,

I love proclere oil bleach for on the scalp or global blonding
then I use the proclere toners for afterwards , all depending on the shade they want ,
I couldnt live without my bleaching products ,
I love the clean cool blondes it produces

I love it when a natural level 6 or 7 walks in
I start thinking ooooooh fab
hope she wants highlights or peek aboo bits ect ect lol :lol:
then she says just a trim , drat :cry:

Loreal used to have great one called Blondiss gel , and then after years it suddenly dissapeared , (but I find the proclere is the nearest to it )

I still live in hope It will come back on the market again ,
I think as long as bleach is properly monitored
its such a great tool :hug:

 

[liana kay]

i think you were just lucky when you did it yourself that much bleaching with a low peroxide or one lot of bleaching with hi - peroxide will cause scalp burns . a level to to a platinum! wow . personally i dont think that the hairdressers could have done it any other way - it would have voided their insurance .
If i were you , and i know it will be rank for a while id have it done the old fashioned way like Marilyn monro . look it up , but if i remember rightly , she`d have it bleached one day , wait 2 days for the scalp to recover a bit ,then have it rebleached and toned - but that may be two days with orange or yellow roots! and have it done every 3 weeks , so the overlap works in your favour .
O bviously this isnt gonna be good for your hair , but if its fairly short and you have it cut regularly then whats a little breakage its your choice . try to stay away from moisturising conditioners as they may over soften the hair and make it more prone to breakage ,dissolving and stretching , you will know if your hair falls into this catogory -its soft and goes spongy when wet!

 

[donatas]

But see I did the on the scalp bleach with 40 volume WITH heat and it did not burn my scalp. It was only on for 30 minutes though. 40 volume on the scalp for 90 minutes without the heat is going to burn no doubt about it.

What burned my scalp was the two applications of bleach that the stylist put on my hair. One application of 20 followed by an application of 30 is going to burn just like a single application of 40. (the total processing time she had me endure was 90 minutes by the way)

My point is that I was able to lift my hair out all the way to pale yellow without burns by myself, the stylist was only able to lift me out to orange-gold but fried my scalp.

 

[minky]

Hi donatas I see where you are coming from ,
lots of bleaches are different
some are nice and some are nasty and full of ammonia
and boy
you can really smell the harsh ones

some bleaches can be pretty harsh on the scalp compared to other types ,

usually though it will state on the back of the pack whether it is safe to be used on the scalp,
and with what volume, what timings, and if heat is allowed ect ,
all of them are slightly different and they only ever usually state that
40 volume is usually for off the scalp techniques

but there may be some exceptions to the rule
eg; I know Loreal do one called Platinium which have two types of bleaching paste in pots
which lifts up to seven levels
but I am not too sure if you can actually use the stronger pot that has the ammonia in it directly on the scalp with 40 volume,
perhaps someone on here who uses Loreal Products will let us know ?

I find with some cheaper brand powder bleaches when doing foils
I would only ever use 20 vol with them
as some of them can lift the hair really fast and the hair can easily get damaged and stretchy

but with wella blondor I can use 40 vol in the foils safely if needed
because its not a harsh lifting bleach

Personally
I dont use any powder bleaches on the scalp at all
because I hate it when the client complains of burning or itching
and starts scratching at it with a tail comb after its only been on for 10 minutes :irked:

So for any high lifting on the scalp techniques ,
I only ever use Proclere blue gel oil bleach which doesnt itch or burn
you can only use 20 volume peroxide with it but it does have boosters
and it will give you one of the lightest degree of lifts ever on darker haired bases

but as with all bleach
although it is really gentle on the scalp
it can still cause damage and breakage to the hair if overlapped on the next visit or if it has been used to lift up a very dark level

Ps the Marylin Munro technique that liana kay suggested sounded great

:hug:

 

[liana kay]

i really think you were just lucky ,and i have tried to bleach my hair myself with 9% on the head when i had an annie lennox style , i couldnt leave it on andit burnt like mad - lucky i didnt have any permanant damage .
Im sorry that minky nor i can really agree with you on this one, as it is always better to er on the side of caution ,but at the end of the day its your hair and if thats what you want to do and are pleased with the result ,then thats fine, you just may find that no one will do your hair .

 

[donatas]

My hair and scalp is pretty oily, this was probably what kept the initial application from burning me. Four weeks later when I had the stylist do my roots the previous application had dried all that up and in hindsight guess that's what went wrong