Shellac problem when removing with D-Sperse

[newatnails]

Hi guys :lol:
Well it's been a while but after quite a while of deliberating, I have just purchased my 1st shellac kit for Sweetquared. I have a spa manicure and pedicure certificate with CND albeit was a few years ago when I trained with them. I've just done my NVQ level 2 beauty and refresed on manicure and pedicure techniques, am doing my NVQ level 3 and loving it. Anyway, I've decided to get back into nails and start offering Shellac as a service from April onwards to try and earn some extra pennies - I've had it on my nails and to be fair it has chipped :-( but then, I am quite heavy handed with my nails although I do wear gloves and solar oil every day (maybe not twice daily)
Anyway., with everything I've learned regarding the perfect prep (I've refreshed watching 100's of video's re: Shellac) and I finally did my 1st set of shellac on myself on Friday. I was very particular when it came to scrubbing my nails and under the free edge with scrubfresh., also was very careful to use a thin layer of base coat and to seal the free edge, then did my layers of Fedora (think I was abit obsessed about the 'thin to win' as 1st 2 layers were still opaque and very thin, so went with 3 layers in the end to get full coverage, sealing the free edge each time, did the same with the top coat (noticed this is quite thick) although did shake each bottle for approx 30 secs before using any of them!
My problem is., I noticed when using D-Sperse to remove the inhibition layer after top coat, some of the colour came off with it ??? They don't appear as shiny as they do when I've had them done on myself in the past professionally by someone else that is. And even though the ends were all covered and sealed still after curing, they've all shrunk abit already and bit's of white free edge are appearing already. They don't look as good as when someone else has done them to me, and I know it's only my 1st set, and I've got time to iron all the problems out before I start charging clients for my services but I'm feeling abit peeved about it. Was feeling so confident at the beginning and being so careful.
I did a dry prep and got rid of any cuticle
cleaned with scrubfresh really well all over nail, side walls, and under free edge
then base coat (sealed)
3 x colour coats 'Fedora' (sealed)
1 x top coat (sealed)
removed inhibition layer with D-Sperse (not D-Solve or Acetone) :lol:
It's a brand new lamp so no probs there!

Could any of you experienced Shellac geeks give any advice (I've read as many threads as I can) but still not sure what I've done

I do wonder wether I've gone too close to the sidewalls etc and not left big enough gap., I have left a v.tiny gap though. Wonder wether product has been applied too thin ? Or my fingers were too far up the lamp - which I really don't think I did as I've tried again today on 1 finger on each hand to see if anything different happens and just used two coats today.

Help/Advice please guys xxx

 

[newatnails]

Sorry it's abit long winded - I do tend to rabbit on abit

 

[carebears86]

Hi, after you have used the top coat, are you curing it for 2minutes before using the d-sperse? xx

 

[souz]

it does sound as though you went a bit too thin with your colour coats as fedora for me gives pretty good coverage on the first coat!

as for removing colour when wiping the inhibition layer this is probably because you didnt quite give full coverage with the top coat, you have to really make sure that you have covered the side walls and the free edge otherwise yes you would remove colour. hth

 

[Maz101]

One thing don't worry about the 3 coats of fedora, I always do 3 coats to get a nice even coverage, it she one colour I find needs it.

Also

The reason you had a bit of colour on the pad was because you had missed covering a bit of the colour coat and when you wiped you removed a bit of the colours sticky layer, just means you need to make sure the top coat covers all the colour.

 

[chocolatepickle]

I would recommend taking a class if your having a few issues, its inexpensive and will iron out all your issues in the quickest way.

Im assuming your lamp is the white CND Lamp yes? Have you removed all the blue film from the inside of it? If this is still inside it can cause undercuring and a less shiney finish.

 

[faye_g]

Really really shake the bottles to make sure they are mixed up well

 

[newatnails]

Thankyou so much for all your replies guys

Yep - have cured after top coat
Yep - all blue film is out of the lamp
Yep - I've def done the side walls/free edge ok, it's more the top of the nail that is abit dull
Yep - got the CND lamp - everything is CND as bought the whole kit from Sweet squared

I can only put it down to not doing a full coverage with the colour and the top coat so will be more careful next time and see what happens.

:lol:

 

[Ellebelle]

Try floating your top coat, it is thicker than the colour but you need to get a good coverage. don't apply it too thin and be light with your application so as not to disturb any colour underneath. And sweep the brush across free edge to sealXx

 

[scottishjoy]

if its colour coming off on your pad its almost definitely a top coat issue... remember your colour shouldnt come RIGHT up to the edge of your base coat.. you need to be able to seal the colour in so a tiny tiny space needs to be left round the edge so your base coat and top coat can seal in the colour..

you want your top coat to be a bit thicker than your colour and base..and as the PP said you want to float your topcoat on that should sort it x

 

[RebeccaQ]

As already mentioned, there is an inexpensive course you can book through S2. It's good and will solve any problems or issues. Its called Shellac brings them back and its a half day. The ea is there and can see exactly what you are doing and answer any questions. Good luck xx

 

[busybee32]

As others have said get yourself booked on the shellac brings them back class, you will learn so much from this course.
The fedora sometimes you can go too thin and 3 thin coats is fine, won't affect service wear. When you are shellacking, think of it as making a sandwich,
The base coat is your bottom layer of bread, the colour coat layers are your spread, and the 2nd colour coat your filling, these need to be inside that bottom layers perimeter, the top coat is your top layer of bread which surrounds the spread and the filling completely.
Also don't be tempted to go too thin on the top coat as if you go to thin you will not completely cover and that can lead to colour being pulled off when you D'Sperse.
HTH's
Jen xxx

 

[newatnails]

Thanks to everyone for all your pointers., will put them all into use next time I do a dark colour in shellac, practising french now :lol: also received details on training today so will be contacting S2 this week to do the 'shellac brings them back' course x

 

[newatnails]

Well i've done a few applications of 'shellac' on friends now and can see they are getting better each time, so thankyou all again for your replies and much needed advice I am really grateful x
I have just done a friends toe nails in Fedora (it's the 2nd time I've used it since I did my own) I now make sure I really really shake the bottle up before using, which is definately helping.. I only did 2 coats of colour on her and still felt it was streaky in parts, am now managing to cover the total nail surface with top coat (leaving a gap around the nail edge) which isn't bringing any colour off anymore. I just need to be abit tidier when polishing., as still seem to get colour on the end of the fingers/toes when sealing the free edge obviously some toes don't have much of a free edge anyway which is even harder, so spending time tidying up quite abit before curing.
I am booked on the 'Shellac brings them back' on the 14th Feb and can't wait to see if I can get some answers and finally perfect my application, and get my times down - it is taking me 1hr 1/2 to do a set at the moment, I am wondering wether I am spending too much time on prep., but I am very particular about clearing the dead cuticle away and scrubbing the nail clean with scrubfresh prior to application. I'm sure it will just be something that will come with more practice

Thanks again guys x