Sidewalls

[min11]

Ok, I have been trying to practice a little on myself as well as my trainer hands. They aren't perfect but trainer hands have nice straight sidewalls which helps. MY nails are a nightmare. Every single time I do them I look at them and I know they look 'hippy' but if I file them straight I'm so close you can see the corners of the free edge through the white acrylic. If I make the whole thing wider they are bulky looking and wide if the side walls are to be straight. I've tried a more almond shape but I still end up looking at them thinking I need to take them in and when I do there's the dreaded shadow again. My natural nails is rounded in the cuticle area and my nails do fan out ever so slightly towards the free edge. The ToneLise techs who have done them pinch them in and quite hard too, is that why, I can see how it creates and nice c curve but I can see how it might take the side in aswell. I dont mind doing that to myself but I have noticed that a couple of my fingers are sore after they have done them and once I've removed the nails when I get bored with the nails art the free edge is uneven, almost like it pulled my nail away. Its much better now than it was but it has scared me off pinching.

What can I do? Any advice appreciated. I cant stand it when my nails look hippy!

 

[fats28]

Have you tried filing the sides in a little before applying the tip that might help.

 

[Sassy Hassy]

Can you post a pic and then we can advise you best then.

 

[geeg]

There is a technique for this and IT IS EASY.

When you place your bead in zone 2 do NOT press to hard in the center of the bead. Doing this hard press divides the bead and places the bulk at the sides where you do not want it.

Press the bead lightly and then only pat out a small amount to the sides so that you keep your product in a curve at all times. Do this to both sides and then brush back to the center of the bead from both sides to smooth.

Why wont technicians learn that pinching is not necessary when you have good brush technique??

 

[min11]

There is a technique for this and IT IS EASY.

When you place your bead in zone 2 do NOT press to hard in the center of the bead. Doing this hard press divides the bead and places the bulk at the sides where you do not want it.

Press the bead lightly and then only pat out a small amount to the sides so that you keep your product in a curve at all times. Do this to both sides and then brush back to the center of the bead from both sides to smooth.

Why wont technicians learn that pinching is not necessary when you have good brush technique??

Thanks Geeg, will try. I have been sitting with your book by me every time, not sure its helped by my mexican hat shaped natural nails.

As for the pinching, I was taught to do that in class. It had never happened to me until then so I guess some of us wouldn't ever do it if it wasn't what we were trained to do, much the same as nipping the eponychium. Had never done it and never had it done to me either and still dread it.

 

[Emmajt]

There is a technique for this and IT IS EASY.

When you place your bead in zone 2 do NOT press to hard in the center of the bead. Doing this hard press divides the bead and places the bulk at the sides where you do not want it.

Press the bead lightly and then only pat out a small amount to the sides so that you keep your product in a curve at all times. Do this to both sides and then brush back to the center of the bead from both sides to smooth.

i've been having trouble with my side walls lately, just couldn't figure out why i kept getting too much product at the side walls - confusion over. Sometimes i guess i can't see the obvious.

 

[nailzoo]

and just when you get it right on a dummies hand, you're gonna have to do it on a real person .....good luck

 

[min11]

and just when you get it right on a dummies hand, you're gonna have to do it on a real person .....good luck

It is a real person I'm having problems with, my own nails..........

 

[ksmoores]

There is a technique for this and IT IS EASY.

When you place your bead in zone 2 do NOT press to hard in the center of the bead. Doing this hard press divides the bead and places the bulk at the sides where you do not want it.

Press the bead lightly and then only pat out a small amount to the sides so that you keep your product in a curve at all times. Do this to both sides and then brush back to the center of the bead from both sides to smooth.

Why wont technicians learn that pinching is not necessary when you have good brush technique??

not sure you know why pinching is done then

 

[geeg]

not sure you know why pinching is done then

I would say it is done because techs don't know how to do otherwise!

I believe that pinching a 40% C curve into the tip or sculpt was to make sure the criteria were met for competition work. You do not need to do this in the salon and many clients find it painful as the nail plate is being forced into an unnatural position.

I have never used the 'pinch' to get a c curve and I do not believe it is a good practise to adopt in the salon.

 

[ksmoores]

I would say it is done because techs don't know how to do otherwise!

I believe that pinching a 40% C curve into the tip or sculpt was to make sure the criteria were met for competition work. You do not need to do this in the salon and many clients find it painful as the nail plate is being forced into an unnatural position.

I have never used the 'pinch' to get a c curve and I do not believe it is a good practise to adopt in the salon.

you are entitled to your opinion, if done correctly doesnt hurt, if done correctly improves look of finished nail. i use the technique when required on my clients without complaint, and they do see the difference. It is not just for competition.

 

[geeg]

you are entitled to your opinion, if done correctly doesnt hurt, if done correctly improves look of finished nail. i use the technique when required on my clients without complaint, and they do see the difference. It is not just for competition.

I do not believe that I said anywhere that it was just for competition.

I also said that 'pinching' is not a technique that has to be used if you know how to do it another way. The OTHER way never causes pain and looks just as nice if not better. I prefer the skill of the brush every time. And you are so right .. I am entitled to my opinion and I usually back my opinion up with the reasons behind it. There are sound reasons for not pinching and even sounder ones for using the brush to do your work.

 

[Lauz]

There is a technique for this and IT IS EASY.

When you place your bead in zone 2 do NOT press to hard in the center of the bead. Doing this hard press divides the bead and places the bulk at the sides where you do not want it.

Press the bead lightly and then only pat out a small amount to the sides so that you keep your product in a curve at all times. Do this to both sides and then brush back to the center of the bead from both sides to smooth.

Why wont technicians learn that pinching is not necessary when you have good brush technique??

HI Geeg,

can you use this same technique for sculpts too? Or would you have to do it another way? Just wondering as i don't like the pinching as i have found it uncomfortable when had it done to me and don't like the thought of doing it to others.

Thanks for your help x

 

[Sassy Hassy]

Min from what you have been telling me I think it's not so much the sidewalls in zone 2 that's your problem. I think it's because your nails naturally fan out and you need a technique to be able to enhance this and lose the splaying out look from cuticle to free edge. I've tried to explain to you how (this is all by page messages peeps in case you're confused that this is my first reply) with the use of the file, but maybe Gigi who is way better at explaining these techniques than me can help.

 

[min11]

I think it's because your nails naturally fan out and you need a technique to be able to enhance this and lose the splaying out look from cuticle to free edge. I've tried to explain to you how (this is all by page messages peeps in case you're confused that this is my first reply) with the use of the file, but maybe Gigi who is way better at explaining these techniques than me can help.

Thats it, spot on. I've been told in the past that pinching is a good way to bring my sidewalls at the free edge but it hurts me especially as the acrylic continues to dry. My nails dont splay dramatically, but its enough that in trying to make a nice straight sidewall the corners come close to the surface of the acrylic and shadow through the white. I'm an idiot really as I had a sculpt on my ring finger that I did, I had a spare half hour the other day with no kids so I sat and did a sculpt on one finger and what happened is I made a respectable smile and after shaping the sidewall the corner of the smile was almost gone so you could see the tiny bit of free edge I had the form tucked under as a shadow.

I'll keep practicing. I have a friend coming to stay next weekend for a week so its a week of solid practice on a real person, she's coming expecting to have them on and take them off a few times so I'm looking forward to that a lot.

Thanks Geeg and Sassy, I appreciate your advice :hug: