Silk NNO Cracking

[Claire83]

I have recently done a natural nail overlay with silk for a friend, I was really happy with the result. I did the usual prep before applying the mesh, they looked good and smooth around the eponychium and sidewalls.

Two days later she mentioned to me that there was a bit of cracking, like mosaic, on some of the nails, mainly around the free edge. I've noticed that when practicing on my nail trainer this happens too, but after a very long time where I have kept the trainer nails to look at at a later date.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[user 35377]

Could be that the resin is too thin at the edge and the flexibility of the nat nail is causing the cracking. Or it could be that the product is drying out too much because of the lack of home maintenance. When they apply their moisturizing oil, they need to be adding just a bit under the free edge and massaging it in at least once a day. Could be other things that I personally can not think of. But those are the two that come to mind!
HTH!

 

[Glamour Puss7]

Hi there! I agree with the above, but want to ask do you apply your resin over the silk twice then activate it each time:?: I always do it twice as it adds more strength,

 

[Claire83]

Hi, thanks for your answers. I applied it twice over the resin and activated each time with a brush on resin. I'm using Soft Touch Nail Wrap System which I got in my college pack.

 

[Claire83]

I know this is a bit of an old thread of mine now, but I have just had this happen again.

I have done Silk overlays on my mum and two days later (today) they are cracked on one side, horizontally, working from the free edge toward the base of the nail plate.

I used the same procedure again, three layers of resin and activated each one.

I'm getting really confused about these now, I obviously don't want to be offering these when I don't know what my problem is.

 

[geeg]

MY opinion is your are activating too much when you don't need to.

Adhesive resin will shatter like glass if it drys too quickly and activator speeds up the drying process and too much activator is the cause.

If using brush on activator then:
First layer let dry on its own (it will in seconds just with the moisture of the nail)
2nd layer use your activator and third layer use activator, but not too much on the brush.

If using spray activator then
First layer let dry on its own (it will in seconds just with the moisture of the nail)
2nd layer use your spray activator and third layer use no activator as the residue of the spray from the previous layer will dry the 3rd layer.

Use thin layers of resin as well .. thick layers cause shattering.

 

[Claire83]

Thanks Geeg, will give this another go. I try to apply thin layers but my college tutor said to active each layer hence my actions.

Fingers crossed it will work out fine with your advice!

 

[SimplyRed]

I always use spray activator in between each application but i use Backscratchers products and have done for years. Ive never had a problem with their products.

 

[geeg]

I always use spray activator in between each application but i use Backscratchers products and have done for years. Ive never had a problem with their products.

You may always use it, but you don't have to. Also you have years of experience and this young lady doesn't.

Drying too fast with too much activator and too thick layers all contribute to shattering.

 

[Claire83]

Well I have done it and I'm going to see how it lasts, not holding out much hope though, I think it's just me - silk + me = disastorous relationship!

Not looking good for my next NVQ with l&p, gel and silk units. Eek.

 

[Claire83]

Oh, I give up.

It's happened again, even after I left the activator off for the first layer of resin. Looks like I'm destined to never master silks!

 

[geeg]

It could be that you are doing just fine and it is he quality of your resin that is letting you down.

Shall we just say that this problem does not happen regularly with a good branded product.

 

[Claire83]

It could be that you are doing just fine and it is he quality of your resin that is letting you down.

Shall we just say that this problem does not happen regularly with a good branded product.

Any you suggest? I'm using the Soft Touch system which I received in college in September, could age be anything to do with this?

 

[Nailsinlondon1]

Fibreglass and Silk NNO (Natiral nail overlays)
Remember that Silk holds much more resin than Fibreglass, the weave is denser so more resin is soaked up.So do not over activate or you can end up with crackling, shattering or premature product aging. I also advise using a builder resin to finish your application.
Builder resin is a thick viscosity resin and will a.) build a fab apex and b.) hold it much more together.

1. Prep nail; remove all non living tissue.............. use cuticle remover, use a curette and cuticle pushy, pay special attention to the lateral walls and the cuticle area........... Rinse of the remover, dry...........

2. Remove shine with a 240 grit.......only in direction of nail growth.....and only go over once, twice removes keratin and can cause nail plate thinning.....

3. Scrubfresh to remove all pathogens and leave pathogen fighting agents on the nail...

4. One thin layer of resin.........let it air dry

5. Apply fibre or silk strip and a stress strip if requiert,this is a good idea for very weak or very flexible nails..to apply the stress strip, check location of your stress area, press down on the free edge of the nail, the white pressure area is your stress area...appply a small strip to cover this.

To apply the silk or fibreglass, try not to touch the material with your fingers to often..............this causes: contamination and lack of adhesion............

· cut a strip fitting your chosen finger,

· cut of the corners on one end,

· peel off and place back on the left over backing strip

· Leaving a bit hanging over the edge so to speak...

· Place it on the nail and press the cuticle end down........

· Now go to the free edge where your overhang is and pull just slightly downwards, this will bring in the sidewalls, smooth with the left over backing strip, gently does it....

Now you are ready to resin

1. Apply resin let this air dry

2. Apply resin and activate this

3. Tidy up sidewalls and file the free edge, lightly buff with a 240 going over the whole enhancement very lightly

4. Resin one more time activate and buff to finish, if you have a generic builder resin you can use this as your finishing layer of resin.
Apply and brush out over the whole enhancement with your builder resin, capping the free edge as you go along, brush on activator.

5. Solar oil

6. Polish

Tip: Avoid soft tissue contact with the resin as this will lead to lifting, for weaker nails also use a stress strip at the stress area this will reinforce your apex area ............

HTH a little xxxx

 

[Claire83]

Thanks Ruth, I have printed out this now so I'll keep it with me when I do it again.

Is there a brand you recommend or shall I stick with the Soft Touch I'm using?

I really want to crack this as I like silk/fibreglass and want to offer it to clients when I'm mobile. :o

 

[Nailsinlondon1]

I use Soft Touch Silk and Fibreglass and find it pretty good.
Try finding a resin system that offers you normal viscosity and thicker viscosity resin.

Starnails resin and builder resin
EzFlow resin and builder resin
Millenium resin and builder resin
Palms xtra resin and cool set gel(its a resin)
there are just some of the top of my head that offer a 2 phase system.
HTH

 

[Claire83]

I will have a look at these. Thanks for your help.

I tried doing as you suggested, not activating the first layer of resin, but it has still cracked within two days. It's getting really frustrating now.