The L'Oreal thread!

[adamlea87]

I am mobile and taking over a number of clients for about 12/18 months from another hairdresser while she takes maternity leave.

She has only ever used L'Oreal and I use Goldwell and trained in Wella. She has written down what she has been using on each of the clients for me, as most of them want to carry on with their L'Oreal colours as they will eventually go back to Elaine.

I have been reading the L'Oreal technical manual and I have booked myself on some of their courses but they are not for a few weeks and I have got one client that I have just done a consultation for and am a bit unsure how to proceed.

She is a natural base 6 with about 70% white hair. For the past 10 years Elaine has been colouring her hair with Majirel using 1/2 base 7 and 1/2 7,4 with 20 vol. Elaine has never taken the colour through to the ends. She had some bleached highlights done in the middle of February and since then has just had her root regrowth done because she is worried about the condition of the bleached hair (it does seem to be quite dry).

So at the moment she has got just over 6 weeks re-growth, a band of the Majirel 7,4 of about 1 to 2 inches and then the faded out colour with bleached highlights.

She now wants to move away from the copper colour and go a level lighter. She is keen on trying majirel 8,31.

Having read the technical manual I am a little unsure why Elaine was using the base 7 with the 7,4 and not the base 7,3 or 7,03 as the technical manual says to use 7,3 as a base to cover 70% white hair when using the warm colours. The only thing that I can think of, is that she wanted to try and neutralise the copper tones a bit in the 7,4 as the client didn't want it too bright.

If I use the 8,31 with a base 8, will this turn it more into something like I imagine and 8,13 would be, and a bit flat? If I use the base 8,3 is this going to make it much more golden than using the 8,03 with the 8,31?

Sorry, so many questions. I think it will take a little time for me to get used to working with a new colour line...the courses can't come quick enough.

Molly

Molly you are correct about everything you have said... My concern would be the lengths and ends though, they would need cleansing of the old colour if you want to take her up to a 8.31 and obviously condition seems to be a issue.

If removal is not possible and the tone though the ends have faded I would consider changing her root colour to 7.3 and running dialight 7.31 though the ends- the secondary ash will help to neutralise some of the copper and will give the hair more shine. At the same time I would add the highlights and then tone them with dialight 8.3 (or diarichesse 8.31).

That way you can gradually change her colour and she can have some of the lighter gold that she wants. Of course you should technically remove the old copper first, but I am just thinking of something that might work commercially for you. Let us know how you get on, maybe someone else here will have some more ideas for you..

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[jpray2012]

Okay here goes...


1) GC L+E to remove .04: 1 sashet effasor + 60mls hot water over a Bain Marie. Massage for upto 20 mins, or until yellow uc is achieved. RSD.

2) pre lift roots: 60g 10 + 60g 20vol. Develop upto 20mins or until yellow orange uc is achieved. RSD.

3) roots subdue: 1/2 tube 8 +1/2 tube 8.31 + 60g 20vol. Develop 20mins.

4) L+E (providing sensitivity hasn't changed since the GC): 1/2 tube 8 +1/2 tube 8.31 + 60g 20vol. TT (because porous) develop 15mins...

 

[jpray2012]

Here's one!

NB 8 med yellow
SR 4.56 INOA
L+E 6.52 sensitised

 

[Dondon90]

What's SR?

 

[jpray2012]

What's SR?

Shade required

 

[clairebh1604]

What's her natural base claire and what developer are you using?

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Hey Adam, many thanks for your reply her natural colour is about a cool 6/7 haven't seen her natural colour for a long time as she has a colour every 4 weeks and due to the colours I have been using as it fades it blends with the little regrowth she does have.
We bleach bathed it to a orange yellow a few months back, I kept to some warmth rather then taking it back to yellow/white as I was using 7.01 so thought that would help neutralise and would help for the colour not to go khaki, I also added some 7.13 dialight in foils. She loved it and it came out just as she wanted as I was going from pics she had sent but after a few applications of the 7.01 diarichesse it is throwing out so much warmth then it should be after she has washed it a couple of times.
I know in L'Oreal there .01 is blue ash so thought this would help but used .02 before which leaves too much warmth as on the colour wheel orange is opposite blues so thought the blue ash would be fine just cannot figure out where the warmth is coming from lol tia xx oh and the developer is 2.7%

 

[adamlea87]

Here's one!

NB 8 med yellow
SR 4.56 INOA
L+E 6.52 sensitised

1: Gentle Cleanse L+E to remove .52 RSD
2: Colour Phase in L&E INOA 6.46 + 20vol, 3-15mins RSD
3: Roots: 1/2 4.56 + 1/2 Fundamental 4.3 + 20vol.
4: L+E 4.56 + 20 vol TTI (reduce development if porous)


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[ColourGirly]

I'm throwing this one in there, we are having a loreal session this week so I'm saving up my colour order for exciting new things.

I really want platinium for baylage and charge extra- we use infinie.

What bleach should I get this week?

And any other exciting things I should look out for (we are an inoa salon - no majirel)

 

[jpray2012]

Could somebody please explain the fundamental .3s. I'm not working in a salon anymore, I now do freelance. Just wondering what these new shades were and why you would use them?

 

[clairebh1604]

Another one I am having trouble with so any suggestions and ideas would be fab. I have a client that has majirel 6.46, takes fab on the roots with a hint of 6 so it doesn't glow and covers the grey, always works fab on the roots but the ends are just not taking as well, the ends are porous due to her old hairdressing always using bleach and not really advising her to look after it and it was in an awful state when I started doing it which it is improving however trying to get the ends to match and take like the roots is proving a nightmare, I normally do it twice but dont want to have to keep doing this as its cost and time affective and also not good on the hair when the aim is to improve the condition. I wanted to use a dialight or richesse at the ends but L'Oreal have taken a lot of there old colours of the shelves which I believe they used to do a 7.46 which would have been perfect but no longer do any similar colours so I feel a bit stuck with that is best to do. I have heard some people say they use just the tint and warm water and no peroxide? Does this work and how well? I do usually water the mix down for the ends. Tia xx

 

[Missy106]

Another one I am having trouble with so any suggestions and ideas would be fab. I have a client that has majirel 6.46, takes fab on the roots with a hint of 6 so it doesn't glow and covers the grey, always works fab on the roots but the ends are just not taking as well, the ends are porous due to her old hairdressing always using bleach and not really advising her to look after it and it was in an awful state when I started doing it which it is improving however trying to get the ends to match and take like the roots is proving a nightmare, I normally do it twice but dont want to have to keep doing this as its cost and time affective and also not good on the hair when the aim is to improve the condition. I wanted to use a dialight or richesse at the ends but L'Oreal have taken a lot of there old colours of the shelves which I believe they used to do a 7.46 which would have been perfect but no longer do any similar colours so I feel a bit stuck with that is best to do. I have heard some people say they use just the tint and warm water and no peroxide? Does this work and how well? I do usually water the mix down for the ends. Tia xx

Can you not make up a simalar in a richesse or dialight? I used to use tint and water on a few of my red clients and it used to work well x

 

[adamlea87]

I'm throwing this one in there, we are having a loreal session this week so I'm saving up my colour order for exciting new things.

I really want platinium for baylage and charge extra- we use infinie.

What bleach should I get this week?

And any other exciting things I should look out for (we are an inoa salon - no majirel)

I would start with platinium plus, and then maybe get platinium ammonia free which is good when you want something really gentle, but stronger than majimeche.

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[Missy106]

One thing i miss about workin in salon is using majimeche :-(

 

[adamlea87]

Hey Adam, many thanks for your reply her natural colour is about a cool 6/7 haven't seen her natural colour for a long time as she has a colour every 4 weeks and due to the colours I have been using as it fades it blends with the little regrowth she does have.
We bleach bathed it to a orange yellow a few months back, I kept to some warmth rather then taking it back to yellow/white as I was using 7.01 so thought that would help neutralise and would help for the colour not to go khaki, I also added some 7.13 dialight in foils. She loved it and it came out just as she wanted as I was going from pics she had sent but after a few applications of the 7.01 diarichesse it is throwing out so much warmth then it should be after she has washed it a couple of times.
I know in L'Oreal there .01 is blue ash so thought this would help but used .02 before which leaves too much warmth as on the colour wheel orange is opposite blues so thought the blue ash would be fine just cannot figure out where the warmth is coming from lol tia xx oh and the developer is 2.7%

Claire, I would consider using the 6vol developer rather than 9vol (2.7%) as 9vol can lift up to one shade with diarichesse (depending on hair type) it could be exposing her natural warmth.

7.01 is only a soft ash, I would try using 1/2 7 + 1/2 7.01, the base should help to subdue the warmth. Hth

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[adamlea87]

Could somebody please explain the fundamental .3s. I'm not working in a salon anymore, I now do freelance. Just wondering what these new shades were and why you would use them?

The golden fundamentals(bases) work in the same way as the natural fundamentals, so you can use them for 100% coverage or if your target shade is warm you can add them for white hair coverage without sudueing the reflect like a natural shade might. Also can use with the darkening rule.

The base and the reflect is more heavily pigmented, so there are still the normal gold fashion shades. On pigmented hair a 7.3 fundamental would give a more intense result that a 7.3 fashion shade.


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[clairebh1604]

Can you not make up a simalar in a richesse or dialight? I used to use tint and water on a few of my red clients and it used to work well x

I have been looking at the colours to see if I could make it up, they do a 7.43 and 5.66 in the dialights and a 6.40 and 5.54 in the diarichesse so wouldn't know where to start to get as close as poss match tbh. Thx for your advise think I will also do a strand test with the mix and water would it still be the same ratio with water as peroxide? Tia xx

 

[adamlea87]

Claire, mixing equal parts of 6,45 + 6,64 + 7,43 Dialight is really good for refreshing 6.46 x

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[clairebh1604]

Claire, I would consider using the 6vol developer rather than 9vol (2.7%) as 9vol can lift up to one shade with diarichesse (depending on hair type) it could be exposing her natural warmth.

7.01 is only a soft ash, I would try using 1/2 7 + 1/2 7.01, the base should help to subdue the warmth. Hth

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Thanks Adam, did wonder about the peroxide but was worried as I was also told to use the 9 but understand where your coming from as it would give it more tone rather then lift and would be better coverage in hindsight. Would you advise still using the 6vol with 1/2 7 + 1/2 7.01?

I did re do it yesterday and we went for a bit of a change for the summer months as she wanted some highlights so I went for 3/4 7.01 + 1/4 6 and then done half head highlights to a yellow and toned with 8.13 richesse. All blended lovely. So that will help for the summer and maybe when she wants a change again I will cleanse then start again with your advise xx

 

[clairebh1604]

Claire, mixing equal parts of 6,45 + 6,64 + 7,43 Dialight is really good for refreshing 6.46 x

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Thanks Adam, haven't got the 6.45 or 6.64 on my new chart but do know there are colours they have got on the shelves that are not in the shade chart. Hence why I was stuck lol. Do you think hi richesse 7.46 maybe with a hint of something else would work just as well as they still have some old stock at my wholesalers and noticed when there today they had 7.46 so picked 2 up as they were only £1 lol also had some luo 6.46 that I also picked 2 up as they were £1 as well so don't know if they would also help as I used to like working with luo at the salon due to the shine and condition it leaves hair in and does give a nice colour xx

 

[adamlea87]

Claire sounds like a good deal but I would test the colours first because they are a few years old now x

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