White colour mishap!

[Sjp-183]

I have been using velvesilk 10/16 on a client with grey hair. Target colour is white. There is a dark grey patch on the ob which always looks a little yellow. On the recommendation of my wholesaler I changed to Koleston Perfect 10/16, the assistant said the toner was more intense. I applied it, with 9% because the grey is quite dark. It was great on the top but the sides which are short went pink. What went wrong please? Would 12/89 be better? I didn’t use it as I felt the pearl may leave pink tones!!

 

[AcidPerm]

Few staff in wholesalers are expert colourists so they wouldn’t be my first choice for colour advice, especially as I’ve overheard some very dodgy advice in the past.

What percentage of grey are you working with?
Obviously, if it was classed as 100% grey it would actually be more or less white.

Second important consideration, what’s the natural level?

If you’re trying for white, depending on the natural level and percentage of grey, I’d generally go for bleach then tone afterwards, but it depends on your starting point. You will usually find that the percentage of grey isn’t evenly spread so you might have lighter temples, top and the back area is much darker. Therefore, you might need to prepare a different colour mix to deal with different sections.

Finally, think about the depth of colour pigment in the colour you want to use as a toner. Remember that a level 10 contains less colour pigment than a 9. A level 12 highlift tint has even less colour pigment in it, so it’s unsuitable for using as a toner and really, not much use on anything darker than a natural 8 unless you want a warmer finish.

 

[Sjp-183]

Few staff in wholesalers are expert colourists so they wouldn’t be my first choice for colour advice, especially as I’ve overheard some very dodgy advice in the past.

What percentage of grey are you working with?
Obviously, if it was classed as 100% grey it would actually be more or less white.

Second important consideration, what’s the natural level?

If you’re trying for white, depending on the natural level and percentage of grey, I’d generally go for bleach then tone afterwards, but it depends on your starting point. You will usually find that the percentage of grey isn’t evenly spread so you might have lighter temples, top and the back area is much darker. Therefore, you might need to prepare a different colour mix to deal with different sections.

Finally, think about the depth of colour pigment in the colour you want to use as a toner. Remember that a level 10 contains less colour pigment than a 9. A level 12 highlift tint has even less colour pigment in it, so it’s unsuitable for using as a toner and really, not much use on anything darker than a natural 8 unless you want a warmer finish.

Thank you. The temples are very light grey whilst the panel in the ob is dark grey. Probably a level 6? I have used 10/16, so if I drop to 9/16 that would look whiter? 12/89 would do nothing?

 

[ronray]

Thank you. The temples are very light grey whilst the panel in the ob is dark grey. Probably a level 6? I have used 10/16, so if I drop to 9/16 that would look whiter? 12/89 would do nothing?

Few staff in wholesalers are expert colourists so they wouldn’t be my first choice for colour advice, especially as I’ve overheard some very dodgy advice in the past.

What percentage of grey are you working with?
Obviously, if it was classed as 100% grey it would actually be more or less white.

Second important consideration, what’s the natural level?

If you’re trying for white, depending on the natural level and percentage of grey, I’d generally go for bleach then tone afterwards, but it depends on your starting point. You will usually find that the percentage of grey isn’t evenly spread so you might have lighter temples, top and the back area is much darker. Therefore, you might need to prepare a different colour mix to deal with different sections.

Finally, think about the depth of colour pigment in the colour you want to use as a toner. Remember that a level 10 contains less colour pigment than a 9. A level 12 highlift tint has even less colour pigment in it, so it’s unsuitable for using as a toner and really, not much use on anything darker than a natural 8 unless you want a warmer finish.

Personally I'd be inclined towards bleach it and then tone with 10/16.
Apply to the lightened areas first, then the blonde bits, then only apply to the white sides for the last 5mins.

 

[Sjp-183]

Personally I'd be inclined towards bleach it and then tone with 10/16.
Apply to the lightened areas first, then the blonde bits, then only apply to the white sides for the last 5mins.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

 

[Sjp-183]

Thank you. Much appreciated.

If I’m using 10/16 as a toner is it with 3%.

 

[ronray]

If I’m using 10/16 as a toner is it with 3%.

Technically it should be the recommended pastel developer, which is the equivalent to 1.9%

 

[Sjp-183]

Technically it should be the recommended pastel developer, which is the equivalent to 1.9%

Thank you.