Dark hair caramel highlights advice? Wella

[Shakeitoff]

Hi all

I'm a bit of a newbie still early on in training so please don't be too harsh if I'm really off with the following post. Also I'll not be attempting this all on my own, I'll be shadowing someone else and assisting a little, so don't worry that I will be, I'm just sort of looking for some confirmation that I'm on the right track as to what I think we should be doing. Testing my knowledge so to speak. Anyway...

Have a client whose hair is in not the best condition, it had been dyed ages ago to around a 5 with highlights so it's verging on a 6 but I'd say it was around a five. It was dyed months back and she now has around 4 inches of roots, I'd say at a 3. Cause of the way it was highlighted before it looks a bit like a baylage currently (albeit a bit of a dodgy one.)

anyway, in her words she wants to go chocolate brown with caramel highlights. All over no baylage. She sent this refrence picture
http://i62.tinypic.com/2m2apg3.jpg

So I was thinking that we first with 6% developer and wella 6/73 do the predyed hair then the roots last and wash out so it's an even base. Though it has occured to me this might not make it even? Would it be better to do something else? Or another step first. I just don't want to over bleach.

Second dry partially so it's still damp and weave highlights through, using foils, with 1 part 6% and 1 part wella blondor and bring to a yellowish gold colour like a level 8.
Wash out

Then do a tone all over with 1 part wella kolestone 8/73 and 2 parts pastel.

Am I on the right track?

 

[rac__hel]

I think your on the right track (not wella trained) but you will need to dry the hair fully to foil in the second step..
I would even her base first so on the roots if she is a 3 maybe 6ash and 6neutral and 6%- leave the ends then fine foils blondor and 6% then tone the roots with a 7 level and the ends with a 9 level

 

[ColourGirly]

If she's a base 3 naturally you won't get 3 levels of lift with 6%.

If she still had a build up of a 5 then 6/73 with glow on her roots as tint doesn't lift tint.

You don't need to use 6% on the ends nor do the roots after.

Baylage over dry hair not damp hair.

I disagree with the above I don't think you are on the right track.

 

[faerififi]

You dont need to colour first then highlight over the top thats time consuming and damaging, plus its more likely the colour will turn out brassy. The reference she sent you is a balayage yet she doesnt want it?
Youre better off highlighting then colouring around the foils with your base colour, then toning the highlights afterwards. Cant advise on what to use as I dont use wella.

 

[rac__hel]

If she's a base 3 naturally you won't get 3 levels of lift with 6%.

If she still had a build up of a 5 then 6/73 with glow on her roots as tint doesn't lift tint.

You don't need to use 6% on the ends nor do the roots after.

Baylage over dry hair not damp hair.

I disagree with the above I don't think you are on the right track.

If she is a 5 on her ends then using 6% will get her to a 5 on her roots hence why using 6% to get to a level FIVE not SIX is appropriate.


Why not put what you think will help the person asking the question instead of bagging out the answers?

 

[Shakeitoff]

Okay, well I guess part of learnings making wildly inaccurate mistakes lol! So I appreciate the help

I actually had another look at her photo and and think perhaps I was wrong about the base to start with. The roots are more a 4 and the rest a 5. Apologies for that, like I said I'm still learning, may have been a bit off :/

So would I be right in saying I can use 4/77 with 6% instead of the 6/73? Or would the 6% with 6/73 on a 4 base be okay as I was wrong about the roots and if I'm right it's not as much lift? Or should I be using the 6% just on the roots to lift and maybe pastel on the rest?

And if I were to colour around the highlights would the highlights not be uneven as they are going on an uneven base? I thought I should start with an even colour all over.

Yeah I know the picture isn't the best refrence she just used it to demonstrate the colours rather than placement.

I hope I make sense and am not just rambling at you all!

 

[cassies97]

If she is a 5 on her ends then using 6% will get her to a 5 on her roots hence why using 6% to get to a level FIVE not SIX is appropriate.


Why not put what you think will help the person asking the question instead of bagging out the answers?

Wella doesn't work like that, you'd use a 5 to get it to a 5 not a 6 to get it to a 5.

 

[cassies97]

Okay, well I guess part of learnings making wildly inaccurate mistakes lol! So I appreciate the help



I actually had another look at her photo and and think perhaps I was wrong about the base to start with. The roots are more a 4 and the rest a 5. Apologies for that, like I said I'm still learning, may have been a bit off :/



So would I be right in saying I can use 4/77 with 6% instead of the 6/73? Or would the 6% with 6/73 on a 4 base be okay as I was wrong about the roots and if I'm right it's not as much lift? Or should I be using the 6% just on the roots to lift and maybe pastel on the rest?



And if I were to colour around the highlights would the highlights not be uneven as they are going on an uneven base? I thought I should start with an even colour all over.



Yeah I know the picture isn't the best refrence she just used it to demonstrate the colours rather than placement.



I hope I make sense and am not just rambling at you all!

Why not just use 5/73 on the root, then CT on midlengths and ends, then balayage?

 

[VIVA.GLAM]

If she is a 5 on her ends then using 6% will get her to a 5 on her roots hence why using 6% to get to a level FIVE not SIX is appropriate.


Why not put what you think will help the person asking the question instead of bagging out the answers?

Why put incorrect advice?

On a level 4, if you want to achieve a level 5 then use a level 5 with 6% to get one level of lift.
If it was a level 3 like the OP originally stated and you wanted a level five then you would use a level 5 with 9% to get two levels of lift.

 

[ColourGirly]

If she is a 5 on her ends then using 6% will get her to a 5 on her roots hence why using 6% to get to a level FIVE not SIX is appropriate.


Why not put what you think will help the person asking the question instead of bagging out the answers?

Well actually you are incorrect.You know full well what the OP was saying.

So how about you stop handing out the wrong answers and starting on me. I just pointing out where I think this was going wrong- the OP might of had a plan B without me dishing out my step by step.

 

[surf girl]

Tint dosent lift tint anyway

 

[Shakeitoff]

So, I think I'm clearer now, I've thought it over again and here is my plan b.

On the roots, koleston 5/73 with 6%, then on the rest either 5/73 In CT with 1.9% or 5/73 koleston with pastel. Would they both give similar results? Or do I need to use the CT and with a higher percentage?

Leave, wash out then dry hair fully. Idk where I got the damp idea from lol.

Then the highlights. Weave through and with foils use Blondor and 9% to bring to an 8. (I've changed that from 6 thinking 6 won't lift that much, and said 9 rather than 12 thinking that's too high for foils and might cause damage, I hope that's right)

Then apply toner with 8/73 and pastel.

I hope that's closer to being right?

 

[cassies97]

So, I think I'm clearer now, I've thought it over again and here is my plan b.



On the roots, koleston 5/73 with 6%, then on the rest either 5/73 In CT with 1.9% or 5/73 koleston with pastel. Would they both give similar results? Or do I need to use the CT and with a higher percentage?



Leave, wash out then dry hair fully. Idk where I got the damp idea from lol.



Then the highlights. Weave through and with foils use Blondor and 9% to bring to an 8. (I've changed that from 6 thinking 6 won't lift that much, and said 9 rather than 12 thinking that's too high for foils and might cause damage, I hope that's right)



Then apply toner with 8/73 and pastel.



I hope that's closer to being right?

No ct is less harsh. 1.9% will be fine for midlengths and ends. 6% WILL lift, don't think there's any need to use 9%. I'd tone with CT, something like 8/71 would be nice.

 

[Shakeitoff]

8/71 would be nice, I think I prefer it
And so no need for pastel at all then really. Cool, well I guess I have my answer then!

Thank you everyone for your help, i guess I've still got a lot to learn

 

[LizzyS_]

Also stagger the percentage of ur foils hun if u take slightly longer to do them, to minimise any dryness/damage. I.E - 3% at back then 6%, etc x

I've just reread the post, and I'm not sure why ur not doing this in one step rather than 2? Place ur foils and then put ur surround on, it will be less time consuming and u won't be lifting out colour tht u had put on an hour beforehand.

 

[cassies97]

8/71 would be nice, I think I prefer it

And so no need for pastel at all then really. Cool, well I guess I have my answer then!



Thank you everyone for your help, i guess I've still got a lot to learn

Are you doing full head foils?

 

[Shakeitoff]

It will be a full head yeah. I thought it would have to be an even base so the bleach didn't come up To different levels if that makes sense? That's why I thought do it in more steps. As the roots are a 4 and the rest a 5 and I wanted to bring up the highlights to an 8. Is that wrong? Or would I just use different levels on the roots and the rest...? And would that work if I'm staggering it like 3% at the back and 6% elsewhere or something.

 

[faerififi]

The bleach will work regardless and you will get the desired lift in foils. Colouring the whole head first not only means you will have to rebleach the already highlighted parts which is more likely to cause a difference in colour from the roots to the ends, and its more likely you may cause breakage of the hair too.
Do your highlights first, 3% on roots at back and 6% on roots at the top. If the ends of the previous highlights need a bit of lifting up to an 8, use a lower developer strength like 1.9%, then colour around the foils with desired tone, then when everything is rinsed off you can tone the highlights.

 

[cassies97]

It will be a full head yeah. I thought it would have to be an even base so the bleach didn't come up To different levels if that makes sense? That's why I thought do it in more steps. As the roots are a 4 and the rest a 5 and I wanted to bring up the highlights to an 8. Is that wrong? Or would I just use different levels on the roots and the rest...? And would that work if I'm staggering it like 3% at the back and 6% elsewhere or something.

How fast are you with your foils?

 

[Shakeitoff]

I'm fairly slow with foils as I'm still learning. Like I said it won't just be me attempting them I'm shadowing someone fully qualified but I have a long way to go with foils and speed of it.

So should I be doing 3 all the way down the lengths for the highlights at the back and 6 the top and then if it doesn't lift enough then use 1.9 also on the previous highlights? Or just 1.9 on the midlengths and ends with no higher percentage. I think I'm a bit lost lol.