Fabric# disaster, why?!?

[Apex73]

Hiya All,
after doing a good few decent sets of Fabric# tip & overlay on my nail trainer, and one good set on another human, I decided to road-test it on my nails...
I did a nno, and by morning it had 'shattered' & looked awful, so off they came & I re-applied last night, & by this afternoon the free-edge has totally flaked off, theres chipping & cracking & separation, but only the f/e (no probs in cuticle area)...gutted. :cry: :irked:
here is my order of application...
*thin coat of Bond
*Apply Fiberglass (only touching the 'free edge to be trimmed off)
*Slowly apply layer of Bond
*2 Layers Build ( I wonder if I'm applying too thick there) then spray Blast
*2 or 3 layers Boost, using only a 'lentil' size bead, I was even careful not to overdo the brush on Blast.
What am I doing wrong here?
Please help me!!

 

[PLAOH]

The shattering look can be caused by too much activator(sp!) or too much resin. I prefer to use a brush on activator throughout the whole process and not use a spray.

hth's

 

[Peter Pan]

The shattering look can be caused by too much activator(sp!) or too much resin. I prefer to use a brush on activator throughout the whole process and not use a spray.

hth's

bugger, you beat me to it. tho i would suggest the best person to ask about this is geeg - she is the god of fabric, and she will help you out no end

 

[Apex73]

Thanks for your replies
I wonder if I am using to much activator, I never seem to get a really fine mist of the spray Blast, it always sems a bit 'droplet-ey', lol, but I dont think I'm using too much of the brush on Blast, if I use less I seem to get a slightly tacky brush...
I hope I'm not just one of those folk that cant get the hang of wraps...too soon to give up though!
If we cant get to the bottom of it I will pm Geeg for advice. x
Thanks for helpin'!

 

[Nailsinlondon1]

the free-edge has totally flaked off, theres chipping & cracking & separation, but only the f/e (no probs in cuticle area)...
here is my order of application...
*thin coat of Bond
*Apply Fiberglass (only touching the 'free edge to be trimmed off)
*Slowly apply layer of Bond
*2 Layers Build ( I wonder if I'm applying too thick there) then spray Blast
*2 or 3 layers Boost, using only a 'lentil' size bead, I was even careful not to overdo the brush on Blast.
What am I doing wrong here?

Hi ya huni,
How do you prep the nail, do you remove the shine from the nail? Do you Scrubfresh the nail plate prior to the first layer of bond?

The free edge takes all the punishment in our day to day life.This means we have to make sure that we have perfect product adhesion to give it the best start.

• Remove the shine from the nail plate with a 240 buffer, going in direction of nail growth, form cuticle edge right down to the free edge.
• Scrubfresh the nail plate so it is completely oil and contaminant free, this promotes fab adhesion.
• Apply your bond and let it air dry, you will see how it is virtually soaked up by the nail plate.
• Apply your fibreglass if the nail is very flexible or flimsy then apply another stress strip, covering zones 1 and 2. There is no need to do this in separate stages, apply the base layer of fibreglass and the stress strip at the same time.
• Apply your bond and make sure that all the mesh is saturated nicely and evenly, let this air dry.
• Then you next step is applying the build, apply your first layer of build to all ten fingers, stipple it on so it goes right into the little mesh gaps,then go back to the first finger and apply another layer of build, this can be brushed on like you would brush on enamel.
• When all ten fingers have been done, turn your hand over and curl your fingers to wards your palm and spray the Blast spray in a sweeping movement across the fingers, repeat on the other hand. A little goes a long way and to much activator will make the overlay brittle and prone to cracking .
• Tidy up the cuticle area, sidewalls and shape the free edge.
• Lightly buff the overlay so no activator is left on the surface.A very light touch is all that is needed.Your nail should now be the shape and length you want it to be.
• Apply your boost bead, then brush this out with the blast brush on activator.Your brush should spread the bead out in a side to centre, side to centre action, this will help to create the prefect shape.Don't' have the brush dripping wet with activator, a rule of thumb is, as you pull out the brush from the activator bottle brush it against the side of the bottle, similar to when you are polishing a nail. This and the right bead size will give you the perfect resin to activator ratio.Clean the brush by wiping it on a hands free or lint free pad, little circles in either direction will clean the brush before you return it to the bottle.
• Now repeat this one more time, but at this step, when you brush out the Boost cap the free edge, run your brush with the final stroke along the free edge of the nail, this will cap the nail. Imagine if you where to cover a dish with cling film, you would make sure that the cling film has gripped all the dish edges and will stay nicely tight and stretched. This is the principle of capping, get the product around the edges and it will keep the natural nice nice and snug under the coating.
• You should now have a nail that has 100% adhesion, and a curl and separation free nail and with the minimum use of activator it should stay crackle free.Do not file the nail unless you are ready to recap the edges, or overlay separation can occur again.
• Just gently refine the overlay with a 240 buffer. Dont buff the free edge!!!! Or you will break the cap!!!
• Solar oil and glass buff or enamel to finish
  HTH a little bit good luck xx

 

[Zingara]

Ruth, honey, this is awesome and serves as an amazing cheat sheet to those of us new enough to Fabric# that we like our notes handy to check on occasionally...thanks babe!

 

[Apex73]

Hi ya huni,

• Apply your fibreglass if the nail is very flexible or flimsy then apply another stress strip, covering zones 1 and 2. There is no need to do this in separate stages, apply the base layer of fibreglass and the stress strip at the same time.

I think I will give this a try, I do have pretty flimsy nails...

• When all ten fingers have been done, turn your hand over and curl your fingers to wards your palm and spray the Blast spray in a sweeping movement across the fingers, repeat on the other hand. A little goes a long way and to much activator will make the overlay brittle and prone to cracking .

I didnt sweep, just sprayed from above, will sweep instead...

• Lightly buff the overlay so no activator is left on the surface...

Could be a major culprit, I have'nt buffed everytime...

• Don't' have the brush dripping wet with activator, a rule of thumb is, as you pull out the brush from the activator bottle brush it against the side of the bottle, similar to when you are polishing a nail. This and the right bead size will give you the perfect resin to activator ratio.

Another culprit, I've been touching the brush to the inside of the bottle instead of drawing it out...

• Now repeat this one more time, but at this step, when you brush out the Boost cap the free edge, run your brush with the final stroke along the free edge of the nail, this will cap the nail. Imagine if you where to cover a dish with cling film, you would make sure that the cling film has gripped all the dish edges and will stay nicely tight and stretched. This is the principle of capping, get the product around the edges and it will keep the natural nice nice and snug under the coating.

Oh dear, I have'nt been capping either :o ...

• Do not file the nail unless you are ready to recap the edges, or overlay separation can occur again.

I think it definately did occur, lol...

Thanks so much, :hug:
I am about to print that off to add to my Fabric# manual!