Severe nail biter

[hannajadem]

I have a severe nail biter who I want to work on, just to see if I can do it (I love a challenge!). Obviously, I've never done this before, so I wanted to run my provisional method by you geeks, to see if it needs any corrections.
I'm going to use CND Retention+ and the neutral opaque powder (suitable for her colouring).
Her nail beds are approx. 4mm long, with massive cuticle overgrowth, and some of the nail beds are sort of trapezoid shaped, diagonal free edge as that's the way they've been bitten. The skin below the nail bed is puffy.
Proposed method:
1. Sanitise, apply cuticle away, remove non-living tissue etc, rinse cuticle away, white block over surface of nail, scrubfresh.
I want to sculpt without forms (due to funny shape of free edge, and puffiness etc-please mention if you can think of better method), so at this point, I'd apply a little smear of solar oil to skin.
2. Apply L+P to zone 1 (not extending past end of finger pad), then apply zones 2 + 3 with opaque powder, extending the nail bed.

I've never tried applying using reverse application, do you think this would work better, or shall I stick with what I know for now?
Also, as I am sculpting without forms, the c-curve will be determined by the shape of her finger underneath-is it acceptable to have a free edge which isn't completely smooth underneath?
One final question...
Her cuticles are very bad, I've manicured her in the past, it took ages, and some tiny bits of cuticle were left as it was a charity fundraiser so didn't have time to soak-should I perform a water manicure the day before, as I don't believe I can do this just before applying L+P due to the nail plate absorbing water.
Thank you very much!

 

[hannajadem]

Sorry just bumping this up as I've just seen a similar thread, can anyone read through my method and tell me what they'd change, if anything?
Thank you!

 

[Jessica Rabbit]

Hi Doll

If you go onto you tube u can search for tammy talor for nail bitters. she does something like your questions above.. she provides a nail bed in all of zone two then applys form and does zone 1 with white then a thin layer in zone 2 thne 3.. HTH.. Good luck x

 

[hannajadem]

Thanks I'll have a look-x

 

[hannajadem]

I can't find the video-can you give me a link? Thanks.

 

[~Emmsybabes~]

I would do the same as you have mentioned Hun,
After sculpting the nail bed area, I would then tidy up the reversed smile line with my file, then slip a form under to do the whites.

As for the free edge underside...you can make her nails prettier Hun, but you cant perform a miracle Lol,
So don't worry too much about that,
but by slipping the form under the 'free edge' you have just created, then building the white, you will have a nice smooth underside,
as you are keeping them nice and short as long as she is careful while she gets used to them, and keeps her teeth away,
They should last her just fine,
I'd probably recommend she comes back after about a week and a half for a check up though xx

 

[hannajadem]

Oh thanks Emma, you're a star! I didn't know you could do that with reverse application - file the smile into shape before adding the white, but now I've read it, it seems so obvious duh! I think I'm gonna practise on the nail trainer now!
Thanks again.:hug:

 

[Deena]

I've got myself a severe nail biter lined up for a set soon and I'm toying with doing it the way Em describes. I've done a few before, but always tipped them. It's worked out ok, I'm relieved to say, but fancy giving this a go. I'm just a bit squeamish about going straight onto the nail bed. :o

So, after you'd done the smile line with a form, would you build a little apex with clear? Not sure about that bit, please? :hug:

 

[~Emmsybabes~]

So, after you'd done the smile line with a form, would you build a little apex with clear? Not sure about that bit, please? :hug:

I used to yes, x
Not saying its everyones way, but it worked for me...
I never worked well tipping extreme nail biters, this way I actually enjoyed doing,

 

[Bev Rose]

If you sculpt or tip a nail biter - be sure you build your apex in at the middle of the nail enhancement as a whole - that is regardless of the actual length of the natural nail & placement of zone 1.
I asked this question to Roxanne Valinoti at 'The Event' in Manchester last October, as I was unsure where to place the apex - as in should it be where the natural free edge is, or should it be where I make the smile line on the new enhancement - her advice to me was to place the apex in the centre of the enhancement - so as when you look at it from a side view - the apex is central to the whole design. Regardless of how long the enhancement is.
I would not use a white block on the natural nail btw - you need to use no coarser grit than a 240 - as in CND Kanga - or the abrasive side (dark side) of a CND Koala buffer.
Be sure to thoroughly prep around the cuticle area, don't push the overgrown eponychium back too far with your pushie, as it will creep back down and end up touching the product & cause lift.
I, personally would just sculpt it from the beginning - butt the form up to the area of nail plate/free edge & away you go, that will give you the smooth underside when it grows out.

 

[neshma]

im ashamed to say...........Ive been a severe biter all my life
My advise is...........dont worry about making your work look perfect. just focus on keeping the nail on!
Very rarely did a sculpt stay on......I did find one girl who could do it tho. My advise is to use tip. The reason is that your biter will become a sucker and a picker!!! Use a tip. Glue her nail and also a tiny bit of the skin before the tip of her finger Dont worry. This will only last a few days. However, by doing this, the nail will be encouraged to grow straight and not up (because of the puffy skin). Get her to come back for a buff and polish 1 week later. She may need a refill at this point as her nails will grow quick. Personally, the only way I believe for her to grow them out from this length is to keep them as short as you can possibly cut/file them and to come and see you every 8 or 9 days. I find with my nails, they may be fine one day....push it 2 days, and theyve lifted and Ive picked them off. Also bad for this girl is that every time she picks them off......more of her lil nail will b damaged. Trust me......My advise would be not to be too gentle with the nails. They are already really bad!. Scratch them up well, dehydrate with a wet prep and use a product that will stay on really well. If you want to know the products I use, PM me. Paint the nail with a colour. It will discourage picking of free edge. Or paint whole nail with a pink that will somewhat cover her nail line under the crylic. Paint a french where the smile line should be. Remember keep sooooo short, fil tothe tip of her finger. I hope you can help this girl. I know how it feels to have awful nails!

 

[~Emmsybabes~]

My advise would be not to be too gentle with the nails. They are already really bad!. Scratch them up well,

sorry but I totally disagree !
There is no need to 'scratch them up well' at all ,
The nails may already be in a state, but the whole point of the nail technician is to care for nails....
a good product like creative for example will NOT need any scratching up... just a good thorough prep and then removal of surface oils and dirt,
this may be tricky if the remaining nail plate has deep ridges, but it can be done...

This reads to me (and sorry if its not what you ment) Well her nails are damaged already so what the hell...

I would also recommend your client use solar oil regulary.... My nail biter...should I say ex nail biter client swears by it

 

[hannajadem]

If you sculpt or tip a nail biter - be sure you build your apex in at the middle of the nail enhancement as a whole - that is regardless of the actual length of the natural nail & placement of zone 1.
I asked this question to Roxanne Valinoti at 'The Event' in Manchester last October, as I was unsure where to place the apex - as in should it be where the natural free edge is, or should it be where I make the smile line on the new enhancement - her advice to me was to place the apex in the centre of the enhancement - so as when you look at it from a side view - the apex is central to the whole design. Regardless of how long the enhancement is.
I would not use a white block on the natural nail btw - you need to use no coarser grit than a 240 - as in CND Kanga - or the abrasive side (dark side) of a CND Koala buffer.
Be sure to thoroughly prep around the cuticle area, don't push the overgrown eponychium back too far with your pushie, as it will creep back down and end up touching the product & cause lift.
I, personally would just sculpt it from the beginning - butt the form up to the area of nail plate/free edge & away you go, that will give you the smooth underside when it grows out.

I'm sorry, I thought a white block was softer than a 240? Those cuboid polystyrene white things I mean? Help!

 

[Bev Rose]

I'm sorry, I thought a white block was softer than a 240? Those cuboid polystyrene white things I mean? Help!

Most of the ones I've come across are too harsh for the natural - some can be 100 grit!
Unless you actually know the grit of it hun, I'd avoid it on the natural nail:hug:

 

[hannajadem]

Oh I see what you mean. I mean the ones in the Designer Nails section of the S2 catalogue - pretty sure these are 240.

 

[neshma]

no.....not what the hell. Cruel to be kind. If the client doesnt keep her nails on.........I am talking from experience and 10 years of trying to keep the things on........Nail biters usually will become pickers. They will not leave your beautiful artwork alone!!!! They will pick so much that over time the nail bed will become very very thin. Scratching the nail plate well removes a few layers.......a client repetedly picking and pulling nails off....well, let me say,"holes in the nail are very very bad". But what ever, take advise from a non-biter......I dont mind really. Reality is however that I have been perfecting the Nail biter issue for 10 years!

 

[grafxgal]

In all honesty I'd much rather take the advice of a professionally trained technician than someone who gets their nails done at a NSS. Of which I know because you have posted that information in another thread.