Steam or galvanic for extractions?

[Melodymoo]

Hey all!

I am new to the skin industry and I’m debating between using a a facial steamer for extractions or to use Galvanic Desincrustation.

What have you used that’s the easiest way to perform extractions?

thank you

 

[cali-dude]

From what I've seen, and my own approach now - I don't believe anyone will be using steam going forward. With the plexi shields, plexi face shield and mask I can't imagine having steam mixed with all of that. I don't believe steam is absolutely necessary, I enjoy the benefits of the ozone setting for acneic skin types, however this can be treated with high frequency. If you want to introduce heat to warm/soften the skin for extractions I would suggest just hot mitts. I know everyone will have a different approach but that's just where I'm at the moment.

 

[makeuppro]

From what I've seen, and my own approach now - I don't believe anyone will be using steam going forward. With the plexi shields, plexi face shield and mask I can't imagine having steam mixed with all of that. I don't believe steam is absolutely necessary, I enjoy the benefits of the ozone setting for acneic skin types, however this can be treated with high frequency. If you want to introduce heat to warm/soften the skin for extractions I would suggest just hot mitts. I know everyone will have a different approach but that's just where I'm at the moment.

Mundo this is such a good point! Thank you, you've made me re-think my search for a new steamer. I do agree that steam isn't actually necessary, strictly speaking, to warm and relax the skin and do extractions. I love that you've thought of the hygiene/visors aspect.

 

[cali-dude]

Mundo this is such a good point! Thank you, you've made me re-think my search for a new steamer. I do agree that steam isn't actually necessary, strictly speaking, to warm and relax the skin and do extractions. I love that you've thought of the hygiene/visors aspect.

I'm glad I was able to offer a different approach - that's what makes this site so great!
I also wanted to add something regarding extractions. I think an ultrasonic exfoliation device is fantastic for loosening these deposits in the skin (certainly for open comedones).

A great way to effectively perform extraction without steam (at least in my head) is to utilise the warmth of hot mitts to soften and moisten the skin, introduce a desincrustation gel which is slightly alkaline and will help soften these plugs, use the ultrasonic/cavitation device before or after performing manual extractions.

 

[cali-dude]

Mundo this is such a good point! Thank you, you've made me re-think my search for a new steamer. I do agree that steam isn't actually necessary, strictly speaking, to warm and relax the skin and do extractions. I love that you've thought of the hygiene/visors aspect.

I also love the idea of not having to keep a steamer clean, store big bottles of ionised water and the general space steamers take up.
Also for our hyperpigmentation sufferers and 'stimulated'/rosacea skin types, steam can worsen their condition.

I think this extraction technique is more universal on who you can perform it on which I love.

 

[Linffs]

Hi, this is a really useful thread. Thanks for posting. I’m new to the industry too and was about to buy a steamer but now I’m reconsidering.

Ive a question tho.. when I first read this I thought you were talking about, what I now know to be called an ‘ultrasonic skin scrubber’.

Im confused as to why you’d use an ‘ultrasonic cavitation’ machine, as it appears these are for breaking down fat?

If either of you can clear this up for me that would be great. Love the idea of avoiding a steamer but just want to make sure I replace it with the right thing.

thanks!

 

[TheDuchess]

I’ve been in business for a while. I have a very upmarket looking steamer which my clients love but I hate!

I don’t think it is Covid secure to use steam around clients - I haven’t seen any information on the effects of a momentary blast of heat on Covid and plenty about water vapour being a transmission vector. As Mundo says, you won’t be able to see anything!

I use heated damp mitts, wrung out of a bowl of hot water. I have a fancy thermos to save me running a tap. I also use a hot cabbie, with a large basalt stone to help retain heat. Other heat options include a heat hammer, which is electric - you move it over the face to warm the skin. You and facial hot stones.

Frankly I think 10 minutes of heat is a bit of a waste of time to soften plugs and relax pores. An ultrasonic scrubber is much more efficient. You still need manual extraction on big plugs. I’m trained to use a Lance (a sterilised needle). High frequency is a treatment for heavy congestion but won’t refine the skin surface much so needs to be combined with deep cleansing.

Galvanic disincrustration cleans the skin all over and leaves it looking very fresh - it doesn’t tackle old, sticky deposits. You can also use clay masks as a gommage over a smear of oil. It mops up excess oil and gently polishes the skin so it’s good for a “deep cleanse” on skin that isn’t congested.

There’s a limit to how many machines you want to use, they aren’t expensive but you also need to respect the clients need to relax and your own ability to manage all the trolley “clutter”. You don’t want to overtreat skin either. The client doesn’t want to leave looking “shot”

It’s important to understand why skin is congested, milia aren’t the same as condemones.

I think teaching clients to steam their faces at home is a good plan - I tell my clients that they don’t want to pay me to do things they can do for themselves and they’ll have better skin if they look after it in between facials.

Finally I can’t see how you could use ultrasonic cavitation on the face.

 

[cali-dude]

Hi Linffs,

Yes, excuse me the description of 'ultrasonic skin scrubber/exfoliation' would be most appropriate.

I'm happy that this thread can be of some assistance

 

[Linffs]

I’ve been in business for a while. I have a very upmarket looking steamer which my clients love but I hate!

I don’t think it is Covid secure to use steam around clients - I haven’t seen any information on the effects of a momentary blast of heat on Covid and plenty about water vapour being a transmission vector. As Mundo says, you won’t be able to see anything!

I use heated damp mitts, wrung out of a bowl of hot water. I have a fancy thermos to save me running a tap. I also use a hot cabbie, with a large basalt stone to help retain heat. Other heat options include a heat hammer, which is electric - you move it over the face to warm the skin. You and facial hot stones.

Frankly I think 10 minutes of heat is a bit of a waste of time to soften plugs and relax pores. An ultrasonic scrubber is much more efficient. You still need manual extraction on big plugs. I’m trained to use a Lance (a sterilised needle). High frequency is a treatment for heavy congestion but won’t refine the skin surface much so needs to be combined with deep cleansing.

Galvanic disincrustration cleans the skin all over and leaves it looking very fresh - it doesn’t tackle old, sticky deposits. You can also use clay masks as a gommage over a smear of oil. It mops up excess oil and gently polishes the skin so it’s good for a “deep cleanse” on skin that isn’t congested.

There’s a limit to how many machines you want to use, they aren’t expensive but you also need to respect the clients need to relax and your own ability to manage all the trolley “clutter”. You don’t want to overtreat skin either. The client doesn’t want to leave looking “shot”

It’s important to understand why skin is congested, milia aren’t the same as condemones.

I think teaching clients to steam their faces at home is a good plan - I tell my clients that they don’t want to pay me to do things they can do for themselves and they’ll have better skin if they look after it in between facials.

Finally I can’t see how you could use ultrasonic cavitation on the face.

 

[Linffs]

Perfect! Thank you for clarifying and thank you @TheDuchess for such a useful and thorough response. Lots to think about here. Trolley clutter is something Im really aware of and want to avoid as much as possible, as they can definitely spoil the relaxing experience.
Right. so I’m off to staring looking at clay masks and face scrubbers as these seem like a good place start.
Love these forums. Thanks everyone !
Happy extracting

 

[makeuppro]

I'm glad I was able to offer a different approach - that's what makes this site so great!
I also wanted to add something regarding extractions. I think an ultrasonic exfoliation device is fantastic for loosening these deposits in the skin (certainly for open comedones).

A great way to effectively perform extraction without steam (at least in my head) is to utilise the warmth of hot mitts to soften and moisten the skin, introduce a desincrustation gel which is slightly alkaline and will help soften these plugs, use the ultrasonic/cavitation device before or after performing manual extractions.

Hi Mundo, yes this site is fabulous.
I have done extractions on clients for a few years now without using a steamer, and it always works a treat. I use various methods for this. Some young clients like steam as it they probably think this is the only way to do it. I have an desincrustation gel, but not really using it much in this way. Do you use the des gel only with your ultrasonic exfoliation machine or also alone?

 

[makeuppro]

Perfect! Thank you for clarifying and thank you @TheDuchess for such a useful and thorough response. Lots to think about here. Trolley clutter is something Im really aware of and want to avoid as much as possible, as they can definitely spoil the relaxing experience.
Right. so I’m off to staring looking at clay masks and face scrubbers as these seem like a good place start.
Love these forums. Thanks everyone !
Happy extracting

Hi Linffs,. Some Clay mask ideas for you: You might be interested in looking into dry clays that you mix with water yourself for you clients. Commercially available ones, from the right professional salon brands, are also ok too, however there are two benefits to using your own dry clay. One is that you can be sure it will never sting and two, it works out so much cheaper, even though the results are just as good if not better than ready made 'wet' masks. Fullers Earth, alone, or mixed with Kaolin are good. Always remove as soon as dry. Kaolin has the ability (weirdly) to make the skin slightly flushed even though it's so gentle, so don't leave that on for ages or longer than needed. Clay mask are great at mopping up oil (metaphorially), shrinking blackheads, and generally cleansing and refining spotty/blemished areas. Don't use metal implements to mix clay.

 

[TheDuchess]

Makeuppro is so right. I was taught to mix up masks for my clients using oatmeal, calamine and kaolin, witch hazel, rose water etc. The results are very good - at least equal to all the entry level facial products. Coloured clays are also brilliant, research the different properties.

You can use a clay mask as a scrub, or gommage. You cleanse the skin, apply a smear of oil and then friction away using skin refining techniques to keep your bingo wings under control. After a few minutes the consistency will “split” and you can feel the clay becoming less wet and more of an absorbent polishing medium.

Clients love having something mixed just for them, especially if you use different ingredients each visit. You can get creative with your descriptions on your website. For a long time I used to have a seasonally changing facial which I loved thinking about: rose and cucumber in June, a citrus based “sun, sea and sand” facial in high summer, autumn mists and fruitfulness in autumn, and chocomocha in winter - you get the idea. It was a novelty which didn’t sell unfortunately but I think it drove more traffic to my website.

A tip for removal. Dried clay can be a bitch! Either don’t leave it on to dry - it can tighten and feel uncomfortable, or apply over damp gauze. It makes removal a dream.

 

[Linffs]

FABULOUS! so much here to get my teeth stuck into but the general plan seems to be ....

Hot mitts
Desincrustation gel
Ultrasonic face scrubber
Clay masks

Thanks everyone for your advice and ideas, I especially like the hot flask idea too so that I don't have to make a trip to the sink and can keep the water warm..

thank you

 

[Linffs]

Hi both,

I might be too last minute for this but TOMORROW I’ve my first client facial with dermaplaning.

Currently my planned routine is

cleanse
Tone
Hot towels (instead of steam)
Ultrasonic facial scrub
Manual extraction
Massage
Scalpel / derma
Collagen Masque
SPF

Does this look correct? I’m wondering whether hot towel should go after ultrasonic? I’m using eve Taylor products throughout so I could also do one of their masques but seems pointless if I’m masquing after the scalpel. Would you agree?

thanks xx

 

[Springtime]

I’ve watched the video for the Sarah Chapman Pro Pore Refiner. Has anyone used this? Or can you recommend a similar device for salon use? Pro Pore Refiner

 

[cali-dude]

Hi both,

I might be too last minute for this but TOMORROW I’ve my first client facial with dermaplaning.

Currently my planned routine is

cleanse
Tone
Hot towels (instead of steam)
Ultrasonic facial scrub
Manual extraction
Massage
Scalpel / derma
Collagen Masque
SPF

Does this look correct? I’m wondering whether hot towel should go after ultrasonic? I’m using eve Taylor products throughout so I could also do one of their masques but seems pointless if I’m masquing after the scalpel. Would you agree?

thanks xx

Hi Darling,

How did your treatment go yesterday? I'm sorry, I'm not a derma planer. I personally think it's a fabulous treatment to remove excess facial hair, regarding the skin I tend to gravitate towards a slightly gentler microdermabrasion if they need a very uniform physical exfoliation.

Could you refer back to where you did your course and ask the instructor? I always have found they have a wealth of knowledge and clinical hours and tend to be eager to help.

If I'm looking at dermaplaning, it's simply a very thorough physical exfoliation (maybe even more so than microdermabrasion), for that reason I would generally proceed cautiously with manipulating the skin too much. I love how you AREN'T using a chemical peel as I see that way too often with dermaplaning treatments! A trend that I hope dies quickly...

Regarding extractions, I would probably be inclined to do these AFTER the dermaplaning, as I imagine you do not want to inflame/cause swelling to this area prior to dermaplaning (you want the skin to be as flat as possible I'm assuming so the blade passes over the skin smoothly?).Like microdermabrasion, the dermaplaning may by its nature lift or remove closed comedones, saving you some extracting work.

When you say "ultrasonic facial scrub" are you referring to a spinning ultrasonic facial brush? Or an ultrasonic spatula? I imagine its the latter as the spinning brushes have mostly gone out of fashion.

I list a slightly adjusted procedure below, again this is preference and just how I would approach this type of treatment.

cleanse
Tone
Scalpe/ derma
Ultrasonic facial scrub (if this is a ultrasonic spatula, many have a galvanic setting, so you can use the disincrustation mode)
Manual extraction (keep this minimal, I would let the client know this isn't going to be an extraction or massage heavy service as the skin will be more prone to irritation after dermaplaning)
Tone
Massage (keep this to a minimum, I would work in a serum of your choosing and use the iontophoresis setting on your ultrasonic spatula)
Collagen Masque
SPF

It would be lovely to hear others approach to these more uniform and thorough physical exfoliating treatments!

X

 

[cali-dude]

I’ve watched the video for the Sarah Chapman Pro Pore Refiner. Has anyone used this? Or can you recommend a similar device for salon use? Pro Pore Refiner

I've never used this, but just on viewing the video it appears to be what's described as a "hot hammer". The plate heats up and utilises galvanism. The other end is simply a vacuum suction head (kind of similar to microdermabrasion, just without the exfoliating tip or crystals). I have come across stand alone vacuum suction devices, but I wouldn't personally seek that out as I think there are many better ways to perform effective extractions (these suctions devices run the risk of bruising the skin and breaking distended capillaries).

TBH, maybe look at professional beauty device distributors (HOF, Ellisons, Salonsdirect, etc) as they sell many devices that have these technologies in multi-purpose devices or even as standalones.

It sounds as if you are interested in a device that is more for professional use, which I would always suggest. We have to differentiate how our tech is more robust and customisable, compared to these watered down at-home devices.

Happy hunting!

X

 

[Springtime]

I've never used this, but just on viewing the video it appears to be what's described as a "hot hammer". The plate heats up and utilises galvanism. The other end is simply a vacuum suction head (kind of similar to microdermabrasion, just without the exfoliating tip or crystals). I have come across stand alone vacuum suction devices, but I wouldn't personally seek that out as I think there are many better ways to perform effective extractions (these suctions devices run the risk of bruising the skin and breaking distended capillaries).

TBH, maybe look at professional beauty device distributors (HOF, Ellisons, Salonsdirect, etc) as they sell many devices that have these technologies in multi-purpose devices or even as standalones.

It sounds as if you are interested in a device that is more for professional use, which I would always suggest. We have to differentiate how our tech is more robust and customisable, compared to these watered down at-home devices.

Happy hunting!

X

Thank you so much for your advice, I will continue my hunt

 

[Linffs]

Hi Darling,

How did your treatment go yesterday? I'm sorry, I'm not a derma planer. I personally think it's a fabulous treatment to remove excess facial hair, regarding the skin I tend to gravitate towards a slightly gentler microdermabrasion if they need a very uniform physical exfoliation.

Could you refer back to where you did your course and ask the instructor? I always have found they have a wealth of knowledge and clinical hours and tend to be eager to help.

If I'm looking at dermaplaning, it's simply a very thorough physical exfoliation (maybe even more so than microdermabrasion), for that reason I would generally proceed cautiously with manipulating the skin too much. I love how you AREN'T using a chemical peel as I see that way too often with dermaplaning treatments! A trend that I hope dies quickly...

Regarding extractions, I would probably be inclined to do these AFTER the dermaplaning, as I imagine you do not want to inflame/cause swelling to this area prior to dermaplaning (you want the skin to be as flat as possible I'm assuming so the blade passes over the skin smoothly?).Like microdermabrasion, the dermaplaning may by its nature lift or remove closed comedones, saving you some extracting work.

When you say "ultrasonic facial scrub" are you referring to a spinning ultrasonic facial brush? Or an ultrasonic spatula? I imagine its the latter as the spinning brushes have mostly gone out of fashion.

I list a slightly adjusted procedure below, again this is preference and just how I would approach this type of treatment.

cleanse
Tone
Scalpe/ derma
Ultrasonic facial scrub (if this is a ultrasonic spatula, many have a galvanic setting, so you can use the disincrustation mode)
Manual extraction (keep this minimal, I would let the client know this isn't going to be an extraction or massage heavy service as the skin will be more prone to irritation after dermaplaning)
Tone
Massage (keep this to a minimum, I would work in a serum of your choosing and use the iontophoresis setting on your ultrasonic spatula)
Collagen Masque
SPF

It would be lovely to hear others approach to these more uniform and thorough physical exfoliating treatments!

X

Hi,

I'm so sorry for the late reply, ive only just seen this response, which is fantastic help I have to say. I really love the community on this site.

Ok so im now roughly 4 facials in (i've not many clients as i'm a new business) but the facials i've performed seem to be a success. Annoyingly the ultrasonic facial scrubber /spatula isn't great quality (the battery dies quickly) but i guess that's what you get from Amazon. It does have an iontophoresis setting but it sadly doesn't last that long to get to use it and im dubious as to how that works without two probes? How does the current work without it going in a loop?

I love the routine you've suggested though as it makes perfect sense so I will be making amendments to mine.

For facials without dermaplaning i'm coming round to to the idea of wanting to buy a steamer again which is how i've ended up back on here looking at posts for recommendations. I'm using a hot towel but, for me, it feels like the routine is missing something.

There are s many out there and the prices can vary a lot but they mostly look all quite similar so I MAY get one from amazon again but maybe i should have learnt a lesson with the Ultrasonic scrubber.

Thanks again for your help xx