This is a generic tutorial for the application of UV Gel. I have deliberately not used manufacturer or brand names so it is accessible to all. The steps written cover application which are the same for all sculpting gels. Remember to use the UV lamp specific to your system and cure product for the stated timings.
Preparation
Prepare and sanitise hands and nails as per usual procedure. Apply bonding agent if required by your chosen system.
Bonder Layer
Using a flat gel brush apply a THIN layer of gel (or specific bonder dependant on system used) to the entire nail ensuring the whole nail is covered but not touching surrounding skin.
Work the product into the nail well in all directions to ensure a good, even coverage.
Cure under UV lamp for recommended time.
Form Fitting
Some gel systems recommend using clear forms whereas other manufacturers don't, use whichever is recommended for your chosen system.
"Roll" the form between your thumbs prior to fitting to create an even C Curve.
Tailor the form to fit the free edge if needed.
Peel off backing paper and holding the form between your thumbs place under free edge of the nail.
Look at the side view and make sure the form comes out from under the nail completely horizontally, it should not be pointing down or "ski jumping" up
Look down the barrel and make sure there are no gaps or folds between the form and the nail, if there are "wiggle" the form to ensure perfect fit. If you leave gaps product will seep underneath. Do not over work the form, if you have to remove and replace the form use a new form.
Secure tabs making sure the form is secure - avoid over pinching at the bottom of the form and making a pointed end.
White Application
Pick up a scoop of white sculpting gel on your brush
Place down on the form and "twirl" your brush up and out of the gel
Holding the brush vertically and using the very point of the brush gently push and tease the gel along the smile line
Pull the gel out to create a free edge
Tidy up lower arches and free edge by pushing the gel back in towards the nail
Flatten the brush by firmly wiping on a gauze pad
Holding the brush flat against the nail sweep in one smooth motion to create a beautifully crisp smile line
Freeze cure one finger at a time so the gel doesn't slip
Repeat for all 10 nails then complete cure each hand
Clear/Pink Application
Pick up a scoop of clear or pink sculpting gel (depending on preference) and again place in zone 2 and twirl out the brush.
Place the tip of the point of the brush in the scoop and tease out towards the sidewalls then back into zone 3 (keep the bulk of the gel in the centre of zone 2 to create apex)
Then smooth the clear or pink gel up to the white
Check nail from all angles to ensure no dips or uncovered nail
I find air bubbles can be "picked" out, simply touch the point of the brush onto the bubble and "pull" straight up and out, then just smooth over the dip you have just made.
Freeze cure for 10 seconds
Repeat for all 10 nails then complete cure each hand
Remember not to over work the gel, don't play or faff about with it as all you will do is create air bubbles.
Filing and Buffing
Smooth and refine the enhancement as per usual techniques
Finishing
Apply a coat of sealing/finishing gel ensuring good, even coverage over the entire nail.
Use the same application as if applying nail polish and pay particular attention to capping the free edge (most important if applying natural nail overlays, the entire free edge MUST be sealed in or else the gel will separate and lift)
Remove dust, rub in cuticle oil, clean under free edge and tidy up any rough edges with a 240 file.
Preparation
Prepare and sanitise hands and nails as per usual procedure. Apply bonding agent if required by your chosen system.
Bonder Layer
Using a flat gel brush apply a THIN layer of gel (or specific bonder dependant on system used) to the entire nail ensuring the whole nail is covered but not touching surrounding skin.
Work the product into the nail well in all directions to ensure a good, even coverage.
Form Fitting
Some gel systems recommend using clear forms whereas other manufacturers don't, use whichever is recommended for your chosen system.
"Roll" the form between your thumbs prior to fitting to create an even C Curve.
Tailor the form to fit the free edge if needed.
Peel off backing paper and holding the form between your thumbs place under free edge of the nail.
Look at the side view and make sure the form comes out from under the nail completely horizontally, it should not be pointing down or "ski jumping" up
Look down the barrel and make sure there are no gaps or folds between the form and the nail, if there are "wiggle" the form to ensure perfect fit. If you leave gaps product will seep underneath. Do not over work the form, if you have to remove and replace the form use a new form.
Secure tabs making sure the form is secure - avoid over pinching at the bottom of the form and making a pointed end.
White Application
Pick up a scoop of white sculpting gel on your brush
Place down on the form and "twirl" your brush up and out of the gel
Holding the brush vertically and using the very point of the brush gently push and tease the gel along the smile line
Pull the gel out to create a free edge
Tidy up lower arches and free edge by pushing the gel back in towards the nail
Flatten the brush by firmly wiping on a gauze pad
Holding the brush flat against the nail sweep in one smooth motion to create a beautifully crisp smile line
Freeze cure one finger at a time so the gel doesn't slip
Repeat for all 10 nails then complete cure each hand
Clear/Pink Application
Pick up a scoop of clear or pink sculpting gel (depending on preference) and again place in zone 2 and twirl out the brush.
Place the tip of the point of the brush in the scoop and tease out towards the sidewalls then back into zone 3 (keep the bulk of the gel in the centre of zone 2 to create apex)
Then smooth the clear or pink gel up to the white
Check nail from all angles to ensure no dips or uncovered nail
I find air bubbles can be "picked" out, simply touch the point of the brush onto the bubble and "pull" straight up and out, then just smooth over the dip you have just made.
Freeze cure for 10 seconds
Repeat for all 10 nails then complete cure each hand
Remember not to over work the gel, don't play or faff about with it as all you will do is create air bubbles.
Filing and Buffing
Smooth and refine the enhancement as per usual techniques
Finishing
Apply a coat of sealing/finishing gel ensuring good, even coverage over the entire nail.
Use the same application as if applying nail polish and pay particular attention to capping the free edge (most important if applying natural nail overlays, the entire free edge MUST be sealed in or else the gel will separate and lift)
Remove dust, rub in cuticle oil, clean under free edge and tidy up any rough edges with a 240 file.
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you clever chickio!
