The form and shape of artificial nails

[mum]

This thread has occurred to me following a reply to a thread where I commented that some people show nails that are shocking in their structure but the technician thinks they are gorgeous.

I believe that good technicians have an 'eye' for form, shape and balance of a nail. This may come naturally for some or may need to be learnt for others (learnt by looking at aesthetically pleasing nails and comparing them with those that are not 'right')

I also believe that everyone is entitled to their opinion on what is 'aesthetically pleasing'. However, I am of the belief that this opinion should be that of the client when she has seen what is 'balanced' and aesthetic and chooses the shape that pleases them. Nail technicians should be able to create a perfectly shaped and balanced nail first and foremost but then listen to their client and advise accordingly.

In my opinion, there is virtually a formulaic approach to what is the most aesthetically pleasing shape of a nail that can be achieved on every nail. This is all to do with learning the rules first and then being skilled enough to 'break' them. An example of this could be a length that is perfectly balanced for the natural nail but the client wants a longer free edge. An extreme example could be the 'duck bills' nails.

What do the rest of you think? How many know what the 'perfect' nail is?

 

[Envy]

Thanks for posting this Marion

It saddens me and frustrates me to no end when techs and clients are super excited with pretty art on nails that look utterly deformed and shapeless underneath...

If the nail form is not right then no amount of 'pretty' will ever improve it...IMO

 

[Annemarie]

I agree Envy. I've seen some fantastic nail art on nails that are far from perfect. I think some techs try to run before they can walk. What I mean is you should perfect one system before moving onto another etc.
Mum, I'm forever perfecting my skills and constantly wanting my next set of nails to be better than the last.
I'm never 100% happy with my work even when my client is as I always scrutinize them and can see room for improvement. The perfect nail to me is one that is perfectly structured with the apex in the correct place and a not so over exaggerated c curve. I love a natural looking nail which isn't too long and a natural looking free edge, not too white.
When it's hard to tell whether a nail enhancement is real or fake, then that too me is a good example ot the perfect nail.
Gigi's solar oil picture is a fabulous example of this. That to me is the perfect nail.:biggrin:

 

[curvygirl]

I agree Envy. I've seen some fantastic nail art on nails that are far from perfect. I think some techs try to run before they can walk. What I mean is you should perfect one system before moving onto another etc.
Mum, I'm forever perfecting my skills and constantly wanting my next set of nails to be better than the last.
I'm never 100% happy with my work even when my client is as I always scrutinize them and can see room for improvement. The perfect nail to me is one that is perfectly structured with the apex in the correct place and a not so over exaggerated c curve. I love a natural looking nail which isn't too long and a natural looking free edge, not too white.
When it's hard to tell whether a nail enhancement is real or fake, then that too me is a good example ot the perfect nail.
Gigi's solar oil picture is a fabulous example of this. That to me is the perfect nail.:biggrin:

for me the CND almond shaped nail (the nail we compared all others to on my CND Enhance course) is the perfect nail.

It is simply, beautiful x

 

[Dol]

I agree totally. A girl I knew posted a picture on Facebook thanking her nail tech for her beautiful wedding nails, and guess what? They were blingy and pretty to look at but the actual nails were so far from nice!

 

[Wooshka]

I remember many years ago (I'm showing my age now when the focus was on creating the perfectly structured nail and nail art......what was that?!?!?!

Now it's nail art first and a dodgy looking nail underneath and I think too many techs are using nail art to hide bad enhancements.

I have to agree, the perfect nail in my eyes is Gigi's Solar Oil picture (also on the front of her nail class book).
The other perfect nails that I love are Carls (Nailzoo) natural looking nails that he does in many of if videos.

Having the apex in it's correct position, a good length free edge that matches the clients nail bed length, a free edge shape that matches the clients fingers, a nice thin but strong free edge and a not over done C curve, is my perfect nail.
Oh!!! And one that is not covered in nail art everywhere, is my idea of the perfect nail

 

[Tip Toe Nails]

I remember many years ago (I'm showing my age now when the focus was on creating the perfectly structured nail and nail......what was that?!?!?!

Now it's nail art first and a dodgy looking nail underneath and I think too many techs are using nail art to hide bad enhancements.

I have to agree, the perfect nail in my eyes is Gigi Solar Oil picture (also on the front of her nail class book).
The other perfect nails that I love are Carls (Nailzoo) natural looking nails that he does in many of if videos.

Having the apex in it's correct position, a good length free edge that matches the clients nail bed length, a free edge shape that matches the clients fingers, a nice thin but strong free edge and a not over done C curve, is my perfect nail.
Oh!!! And one that is not covered in nail art everywhere, is my idea of the perfect nail

So then as a newbie I have posted my work in the ablums on my page. I do try to work on perfect smile lines they are hard to perfect and I will keep trying however trying to find clients who want French is tough.

It takes me about 2.5-3 hours to build a set of nails however I was just certified Sept 23 2012. I have done about 36 people so far.... any helpful hints as to focus on a beautiful canvas before art work????
thanks

 

[mum]

You are all so right about nail art! Far too much focus is put on it. Get the basics absolutely perfect first then play. Commercially, nail art is a small part of our business but so often seems to get the attention that is essential for basics that will bring in the most income

I completely agree about the Solar Oil nail. However that nail isn't possible on every hand but versions of it with the same characteristics is. I think even a tiny bit longer could still fall into the perfect category (although this one is gorgeous)

 

[Wooshka]

You are all so right about nail art! Far too much focus is put on it. Get the basics absolutely perfect first then play. Commercially, nail art is a small part of our business but so often seems to get the attention that is essential for basics that will bring in the most income

I completely agree about the Solar Oil nail. However that nail isn't possible on every hand but versions of it with the same characteristics is. I think even a tiny bit longer could still fall into the perfect category (although this one is gorgeous)

That's the thing, not every client has perfect nails and hands to begin with but sadly we all know that when we see models hands in nail tutorials, magazines etc, they have been chosen for their good long nail beds, nicely manicured nails and hands etc but we all should strive to offer a perfect nail no matter what the nail we are presented with, it's called getting the basics right, every time and then the skies the limit from there.
It's our job to create that 'perfect' nail no matter what the nail type and in order to do this, it takes practice on the basics first.

I mean, sure, we can get a client that wants all the bling under the sun but if she doesn't have a well structured set of enhancements on under that bling and they lift, crack, chip, peel off or come off completely and she then no longer has her bling and her nail, then there is a risk she will move onto another tech who will offer the bling and an enhancement that stays on and the reason the enhancement stays on is more than likely because the tech spent time perfecting the basics first before worrying about how to do a 3B acrylic bow

How many times do we hear "I put the nail art on to hide the wonky smile line". While I do understand why this is done, I would be going crazy with trying to perfect that wonky smile line before worrying about what nail art I can do next to hide it

We all had to learn to crawl before we walked but this often gets forgotten when it comes to enhancements. Achieving the perfect nail (no matter how long it takes to do) is our crawling and then nail art (as one example) is our walking.

A P&W does not constitute the perfect nail in my opinion, since when do natural nails have strong/bright pink nail beds with bright white free edges? They don't!
The perfect nail in my opinion is a nail that has a soft pink nail bed with a natural free edge color because these are the colors that occur naturally without enhancements on our natural nails.
Not even the soft whites that all companies offer is 'real' looking in my opinion.
More companies need to bring out a natural free edge color, instead of us having to custom mix this color up.
I remember years ago many companies offered it and then when the P&W craze came in they stopped making it.
P&W are no where near as popular as they were and just like fashion, natural is coming back in, so I'm hoping companies start offering the 'natural' color again soon.

 

[Annemarie]

I agree we as technicians should aim to create the perfect nail for each client, as already said not everyone has a perfect canvas to work from.
To create a nail that suits the clients hands, lifestyle etc is what I like to aim for. :biggrin:

 

[Rinn]

isn't that the holy grail? to create the perfect set of nails.

some people are gifted and it comes easy to them...the rest of us have to keep slogging away....casting a critical eye over each set we do and continually try to improve.

i know my nails are only mediocre.
i know i have plenty of improvements to make.

maybe that's the problem with some people ....they don't know the difference ....is that down to ignorance or ego?

by the way as an add on to what wooshka said about the magazines, tutorials etc using models with lovely long nails beds etc a lot of the pictures they are using now seem to be photo shopped or digitally altered in some way.

Surely that's not only misleading it's also treating us a bit like idiots .

can whatever brand is featured not stand by the product and technician who applied the product rather than having to touch it up by computer!

 

[geeg]

Thank you for all the lovely comments re the nails I did for the CND Solar Oil add campaign. Marian is quite right that those nails could have almost been any normal shape or length and still been gorgeous, but I had a brief.

My brief from Jan Arnold was to do a set of nails that would have every technician asking the question, "Are they real or are they enhanced?" I guess I succeeded in that one as many techs in the USA were saying they were natural nails when in fact they were fully form sculpted with my own mix for the free edge and Perfect Pink for the nail bed. :biggrin:

To me no nail shape is perfect on its own ... not oval or square or soft square etc ... It is the shape that suits the hand, length of the fingers, the curve of the Eponychium, length of side walls etc. custom designed for each individual.

You can only do your best with the canvas you are given ... Some people have ugly hands and stumpy fingers and short nail beds or irregularly shaped nails .... It is very difficult or impossible to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". You can only do your best and for those ones it is best not to exaggerate anything but to keep the enhancements very low key.

 

[Dream Nails]

Thank you for all the lovely comments re the nails I did for the CND Solar Oil add campaign. Marian is quite right that those nails could have almost been any normal shape or length and still been gorgeous, but I had a brief.

My brief from Jan Arnold was to do a set of nails that would have every technician asking the question, "Are they real or are they enhanced?" I guess I succeeded in that one as many techs in the USA were saying they were natural nails when in fact they were fully form sculpted with my own mix for the free edge and Perfect Pink for the nail bed. :biggrin:

To me no nail shape is perfect on its own ... not oval or square or soft square etc ... It is the shape that suits the hand, length of the fingers, the curve of the Eponychium, length of side walls etc. custom designed for each individual.

You can only do your best with the canvas you are given ... Some people have ugly hands and stumpy fingers and short nail beds or irregularly shaped nails .... It is very difficult or impossible to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". You can only do your best and for those ones it is best not to exaggerate anything but to keep the enhancements very low key.

I remember you posting the 'recipe' for the free edge colour a while back. I've kept it and going to have a go tonight at seeing if I can get that lovely natural colour.
Vicki x

 

[Tip Toe Nails]

To me no nail shape is perfect on its own ... not oval or square or soft square etc ... It is the shape that suits the hand, length of the fingers, the curve of the Eponychium, length of side walls etc. custom designed for each individual.

You can only do your best with the canvas you are given ... Some people have ugly hands and stumpy fingers and short nail beds or irregularly shaped nails .... It is very difficult or impossible to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". You can only do your best and for those ones it is best not to exaggerate anything but to keep the enhancements very low key.

Geeg??? Anyone?
How does one begin to learn or undersand what shape is perfect for the client? As I am 9 weeks into my nail profession I find it quite difficult as some say here is a pic I want these.. make my fingers look like this?

In my head I am am saying are you for real?

Not because I lack the ability (as I strive for the best I have to give) but due to knowing that her nails look nothing like that picture. Like a hair cut if I do not have that face shape similarity I will not achieve the look of that girl? Hope this question makes sense.

How do you deal with this? Being polite and assertive with sureness they will trust?

Thanks Traci

 

[mum]

It is the same for hairdressers who have a client who takes in, for example, a pic of the Duchess of Cambridge lush locks as a reference and they have shorter and thinner hair! 'Silk purse, sows ear' as Geeg mentions. But there is still a formulaic approach to improving the natural shape

And, as an aside, I know for a fact that the hand model for Geeg's pic had all the free edge removed and then sculpted back. I know her well and am even working with her tomorrow! She said she would ONLY EVER let an amazing technician do that! (I'd like to think she'd let me but have never had to! :Grope

 

[geeg]

It is the same for hairdressers who have a client who takes in, for example, a pic of the Duchess of Cambridge lush locks as a reference and they have shorter and thinner hair! 'Silk purse, sows ear' as Geeg mentions. But there is still a formulaic approach to improving the natural shape

And, as an aside, I know for a fact that the hand model for Geeg's pic had all the free edge removed and then sculpted back. I know her well and am even working with her tomorrow! She said she would ONLY EVER let an amazing technician do that! (I'd like to think she'd let me but have never had to! :Grope

lol --- She liked them so much she wanted to keep them on; which she did for a week or three to get her free edge back. I actually never prepped her nails other than to remove the cuticle ... never buffed a stroke .. just cleaned with Scrub Fresh and away I went. Since that day I have never buffed the natural nail when using Retention+. I'm not telling others what to do .. but I don't. :biggrin: Send her my fond regards please, Mum. :hug:

 

[Melissa82]

lol --- She liked them so much she wanted to keep them on; which she did for a week or three to get her free edge back. I actually never prepped her nails other than to remove the cuticle ... never buffed a stroke .. just cleaned with Scrub Fresh and away I went. Since that day I have never buffed the natural nail when using Retention+. I'm not telling others what to do .. but I don't. :biggrin: Send her my fond regards please, Mum. :hug:

This is really just me thinking but this post and thread here really has me thinking in terms of L&P. The other day I decided that I really wanted to master gels and L&P would be on the back shelf. I have decided against that because L&P and gel can both be my best friend. Some nails are best suited for L&P and others for gel or maybe both.

I work with cosmetologist students at school who have terrible, bitten back nails that I would have a tough time sculpting with gel. Maybe they could be but I don't have the ability yet but now I see how both mediums can be just as helpful to me and perfecting the perfect form and shape of an artificial nail.

 

[curvygirl]

I remember you posting the 'recipe' for the free edge colour a while back. I've kept it and going to have a go tonight at seeing if I can get that lovely natural colour.
Vicki x

any chance of divulging that recipe. Vicki /Gigi? x

 

[curvygirl]

any chance of divulging that recipe. Vicki /Gigi? x

s'ok. I've found it ! x

 

[geeg]

I shared it here on salon geek a few years ago ... The thread title was ... Want to know my secret mix? If you do a search you will find it. X