I can usually tell by looking at the client what % of solution they would be able to take but sometimes they tell me that although they look quite light at the moment they actually tan really easily in the sun and go brown straight away etc etc...
If someone has light skin and tans but burns first then i'd probably go for 8 or 8.5% solution... I also use this for brides/wedding parties...
Someone who tans easily in the sun I would give either a 10% or 12% depending on how brown they wanted to be, not necessarily brunettes, blondes and redheads too! I normally try to talk them into having the 10% first time just incase they dont like it as there is nothing I can do about it once its sprayed on and developed! This tends to make them think and they usually agree and go for the 10% however, if they insisted on having the 12.5% and they tanned easily in the sun I wouldnt have a problem spraying them with it. I usually ask them how much they want it to notice, just a golden glow or like they have been away somewhere...
I have a regular client who is VERY, VERY white!! first time I sprayed her I wanted to do an 8% but she wanted a 10%, I tried to advise her but se wouldnt have any of it! She looked ok and had it the next few times until a few weeks ago when she insisted on having the 12.5% the same as all the other girls and I advised her against it but she was adamant that she wanted it
I held my hand up and said 'it's up to you but dont complain if you wake up tangoed in the morning' I went ahead and worried about it until the next time I saw her two weeks later. I asked her how it was and she said it was lovely and had the same again.
These girls all work in my local hairdressers and a few days later I went in for a hair cut. They all looked gorgeous! even the really white one! I had used 12.5% on them all and one of the others was a redhead. None of them looked orange, they all looked really natural :green:
I am no longer scared of the 12.5% and it is my second most used after the 10%. I hardly use the 8% anymore and need to get some 16% for the really dark skinned clients that I have!! :green:
So to sum up, I advise them but I will also do what the client wants if they have had a tan before and want to go darker, even if I dont totally agree... I wouldnt refuse to spray them I'd just warn them what may happen.