MINKUS
Gel Junkie
It got me thinking today about all the problems and pit falls that you can come across, so I thought:idea: what a good idea for a thread!
Ok, so we've done our research and we've chosen our gel
http://www.salongeek.com/misc-tutorials/35483-choosing-correct-gel.html
We've been on our basic conversion course/undertaken our relevant training.
but....we're getting problems:cry:
Here are a few quick troubleshooting tips. If you know of any please add them !
Q: What should you clean your brush with?
A: Personally I never use anything :green: I dip it in some clear gel and 'work it' back and forth then wipe on a lint free pad. I have had my trusty brush for YEARS !
Q: My brush had gone hard what can I do?
A: Apply a little clear gel and 'work it' in the cap it should free itself easily
Q: What's the best size brush or make of brush to use.
A: Personal preference really, my fave is a 4ML BIOSCULPTURE SABLE brush as opposed to the 'synthetic' brushes you normally come across, but have a play and get what's 'right' for you!
Q: Cost: What is the cost of gel?
A: Your 'soft' soak off gels as a rule are the dearest gels on the market. Brands such as Calgel & Biosculpture, these gels are widely known and have a loyal client base. The file off gels seem to be a more 'pocket friendly' price (not sure why this is though !)
Q: Removal - how do you remove a SOAK off / Soft gel?
A: Easy ! You soak individual cotton wool pads or nail wipes in a bowl of acetone, then you place one on each nail, wrap in hair foils and move onto the next - dependant on layers it really shouldn't take more than 10 - 15 mins.
Q: Where should I store my gel?
A: Out of direct sunlight preferably in a dark box/cupboard to avoid it curing in its pot! Costly mistake!
Q: What is 'Capping'
A: Capping is 'encasing' the free edge with the gel - literally PULLING it over the free edge, and then swiping from side to side with the gel ensuring the corners (if square) are well covered. If you get LIFTING away from the free edge / curling then your not Capping ! Do this with EVERY layer. Never file a SOAK off gel after you have capped.
Q: What is lock curing and why do it?
A: Lock curing is a quick 10 second cure in the lamp. It stops the gel from moving, which is really important especially after 'capping' as the gel can shrink back from the free edge. Also when you've created a lovely 'smile' you want to keep it there so 'lock' it into place.
Q: I am getting lifting - why?
A: Improper prep, old bulbs, dirty bulbs ( wipe them every so often), product touched the skin, not 'lock curing' so product flooding the cuticle/sidewalls
Q: My gel is still sticky after its cured why?
A: The top layer of the gel ' the inhibition layer' never FULLY cures - therefore we need to remove this with the correct gel sanitiser/gel wipe.
Q: Can I file or wipe in between layers?
A: Yes you can, just remember that gel will only adhere to: The prepped natural nail, a sticky surface (ie a layer of gel) or a rough surface (ie a filed layer of gel)
Q: Why are my gel enhancements so flat.
A: Some gels are self levelling so require a bit more effort on the BUILDING front. Place a bead in the stress area and TEASE out, then lock cure. Building shape/apex with a 'builder gel' is easier.
Q: Why is my gel pitted and or not shiny?
A: The key with gel is to FLOAT your brush not 'dig it' in. Pitting is normally not enough product. Not a shiny finish? would be not long enough in the lamp, ie under curing, and or not enough product being applied.
Q: What can I do for nail biters is there a coverage gel?
A: Yes there are coverage gels on the market ..OR you could try and 'mix' you own. Get a clean spare pot and mix a bit of pink with paint on white.
Q: Filing off a file off gel, isn't that scary?
A: No, just remember gel is 'softer' to file than l+p. Get a fresh 180/240 grit and ensure you move your file around the nail don't stay in one place. Easy does it near the natural nail - move onto a sponge board.
Q: Do I need to do anything to my gel before I use it?
A: A light stir /fold of the gel with a cocktail brush ONCE a day.
Q: What's a heat spike?
A: A heat spike (exothermic reaction) is very uncomfortable for the client. It's normally down to - applying the gel too thick, wrong lamp for the gel , thin nail plates. Try 2 thin layers instead of one. If it happens remove the finger and get the client to PRESS DOWN on the table....or:green:hover the nails just outside the lamp but still in the glow of the light for a count of 20 usually prevents any heatpike as it slows down the initial curing process
Q: Why is it so important to use the recommended lamp for a specific gel?
A: http://www.salongeek.com/general-articles/35947-choosing-uv-lamp-your-gel-system.html
Q: Why are my gel nails 'cracking' at the side walls?
A: The area does not have enough 'strength' and will need building up. Every time the gel takes an impact of any sort it will crack/shatter if there is a weakness.
Q: My white (on the French) is chipping why?
A: Check that your CAPPING the gel properly
Q: Can i use 'white tips with my gel'?
A: Yes - but ENSURE you remove the shine TOTALLY from them first.
Q: I am using a 'soak off' gel over tips and getting strength problems - why?
A: For the BEST results try and sculpt - tips with a soak of gel = headache!
Q: I have lots of polish clients - how could i 'sell' a coloured gel to these people.
A: EASY ! Tell them, it is DRY straight away, there is NO smudging, NO chipping, It will LAST between 2 -4 weeks AND ......tadarrrrr will protect their nails preventing BREAKING, SPLITTING, PEELING ....SOLD !
Q: why does my coloured gel 'pukker' up?
A: because you have applied it too thickly (probably !)
Q: Can i infill l+p with Gel
A: Yes there is no reason why you cant infil l+p with any kind of gel.
Q: Can i infill gel with l+p
A: I certainly wouldn't advise it with a SOFT gel (bio / calgel) but you 'may' be ok to do it with a file off gel. If in doubt stick with the same system that is already on the nail.
Hope that helps, I'll edit it as and when I get any other info !!!
Ok, so we've done our research and we've chosen our gel
http://www.salongeek.com/misc-tutorials/35483-choosing-correct-gel.html
We've been on our basic conversion course/undertaken our relevant training.
but....we're getting problems:cry:
Here are a few quick troubleshooting tips. If you know of any please add them !
Q: What should you clean your brush with?
A: Personally I never use anything :green: I dip it in some clear gel and 'work it' back and forth then wipe on a lint free pad. I have had my trusty brush for YEARS !
Q: My brush had gone hard what can I do?
A: Apply a little clear gel and 'work it' in the cap it should free itself easily
Q: What's the best size brush or make of brush to use.
A: Personal preference really, my fave is a 4ML BIOSCULPTURE SABLE brush as opposed to the 'synthetic' brushes you normally come across, but have a play and get what's 'right' for you!
Q: Cost: What is the cost of gel?
A: Your 'soft' soak off gels as a rule are the dearest gels on the market. Brands such as Calgel & Biosculpture, these gels are widely known and have a loyal client base. The file off gels seem to be a more 'pocket friendly' price (not sure why this is though !)
Q: Removal - how do you remove a SOAK off / Soft gel?
A: Easy ! You soak individual cotton wool pads or nail wipes in a bowl of acetone, then you place one on each nail, wrap in hair foils and move onto the next - dependant on layers it really shouldn't take more than 10 - 15 mins.
Q: Where should I store my gel?
A: Out of direct sunlight preferably in a dark box/cupboard to avoid it curing in its pot! Costly mistake!
Q: What is 'Capping'
A: Capping is 'encasing' the free edge with the gel - literally PULLING it over the free edge, and then swiping from side to side with the gel ensuring the corners (if square) are well covered. If you get LIFTING away from the free edge / curling then your not Capping ! Do this with EVERY layer. Never file a SOAK off gel after you have capped.
Q: What is lock curing and why do it?
A: Lock curing is a quick 10 second cure in the lamp. It stops the gel from moving, which is really important especially after 'capping' as the gel can shrink back from the free edge. Also when you've created a lovely 'smile' you want to keep it there so 'lock' it into place.
Q: I am getting lifting - why?
A: Improper prep, old bulbs, dirty bulbs ( wipe them every so often), product touched the skin, not 'lock curing' so product flooding the cuticle/sidewalls
Q: My gel is still sticky after its cured why?
A: The top layer of the gel ' the inhibition layer' never FULLY cures - therefore we need to remove this with the correct gel sanitiser/gel wipe.
Q: Can I file or wipe in between layers?
A: Yes you can, just remember that gel will only adhere to: The prepped natural nail, a sticky surface (ie a layer of gel) or a rough surface (ie a filed layer of gel)
Q: Why are my gel enhancements so flat.
A: Some gels are self levelling so require a bit more effort on the BUILDING front. Place a bead in the stress area and TEASE out, then lock cure. Building shape/apex with a 'builder gel' is easier.
Q: Why is my gel pitted and or not shiny?
A: The key with gel is to FLOAT your brush not 'dig it' in. Pitting is normally not enough product. Not a shiny finish? would be not long enough in the lamp, ie under curing, and or not enough product being applied.
Q: What can I do for nail biters is there a coverage gel?
A: Yes there are coverage gels on the market ..OR you could try and 'mix' you own. Get a clean spare pot and mix a bit of pink with paint on white.
Q: Filing off a file off gel, isn't that scary?
A: No, just remember gel is 'softer' to file than l+p. Get a fresh 180/240 grit and ensure you move your file around the nail don't stay in one place. Easy does it near the natural nail - move onto a sponge board.
Q: Do I need to do anything to my gel before I use it?
A: A light stir /fold of the gel with a cocktail brush ONCE a day.
Q: What's a heat spike?
A: A heat spike (exothermic reaction) is very uncomfortable for the client. It's normally down to - applying the gel too thick, wrong lamp for the gel , thin nail plates. Try 2 thin layers instead of one. If it happens remove the finger and get the client to PRESS DOWN on the table....or:green:hover the nails just outside the lamp but still in the glow of the light for a count of 20 usually prevents any heatpike as it slows down the initial curing process
Q: Why is it so important to use the recommended lamp for a specific gel?
A: http://www.salongeek.com/general-articles/35947-choosing-uv-lamp-your-gel-system.html
Q: Why are my gel nails 'cracking' at the side walls?
A: The area does not have enough 'strength' and will need building up. Every time the gel takes an impact of any sort it will crack/shatter if there is a weakness.
Q: My white (on the French) is chipping why?
A: Check that your CAPPING the gel properly
Q: Can i use 'white tips with my gel'?
A: Yes - but ENSURE you remove the shine TOTALLY from them first.
Q: I am using a 'soak off' gel over tips and getting strength problems - why?
A: For the BEST results try and sculpt - tips with a soak of gel = headache!
Q: I have lots of polish clients - how could i 'sell' a coloured gel to these people.
A: EASY ! Tell them, it is DRY straight away, there is NO smudging, NO chipping, It will LAST between 2 -4 weeks AND ......tadarrrrr will protect their nails preventing BREAKING, SPLITTING, PEELING ....SOLD !
Q: why does my coloured gel 'pukker' up?
A: because you have applied it too thickly (probably !)
Q: Can i infill l+p with Gel
A: Yes there is no reason why you cant infil l+p with any kind of gel.
Q: Can i infill gel with l+p
A: I certainly wouldn't advise it with a SOFT gel (bio / calgel) but you 'may' be ok to do it with a file off gel. If in doubt stick with the same system that is already on the nail.
Hope that helps, I'll edit it as and when I get any other info !!!
Last edited:
and deservedly so too, fab stuff Amber, it'll be a great reference point to a lot of gel techs.
