Judge Gigi-Honorary Geek
Say hello to SHELLAC the first ever "UV POWER POLISH" nail colour coat system and it is from CND
As with any nail service, it is very important to properly prepare the nail. For most clients, this means manicuring the nail, removing cuticle and cleaning/squeaking the surface thoroughly. For the majority of nail clients, Shellac bonds to the nail perfectly without having to remove the shine (by way of surface filing), which protects the integrity and the health of the natural nail.
APPLICATION ON FINGERS
Wash hands and use Cool Blue hand sanitizer before starting any nail service.
1. Shape and smooth the free edge and remove cuticle from the nail plate. You may use Cuticle Away and a cuticle pusher and then have the client wash her hands with a little soap and water and towel dry;
or you can do a dry cuticle removal if you prefer, depending on the amount of cuticle present on the nail. The important thing is to remove all cuticle and Cuticle Away as if not, both the look and the wear-ability of Shellac may be affected.
2. Scrub the nail with ScrubFresh and a lint free pad until squeaky clean. Using ScrubFresh will eliminate any contaminants such as oil and debris from the surface of the nails. NOTE: it is not necessary to remove shine from the natural nail plate with a buffer.
SHELLAC BASE COAT APPLICATION
1. SHAKE the bottle to blend or, as I do, tap the bottle against the palm of your hand while turning it for 10-15 seconds to get the beads inside the bottle swirling through the product to blend it.
2. Remove the brush from the bottle using circular movements around the inside of the neck of the bottle as you pull it out (away from you); this will remove any excess Base Coat from the shaft of the brush which might flood the surface of the nail as you are working.
3. Place the brush in the centre of the nail keeping the hairs of the brush as parallel to the nail as possible and gently push the brush toward the eponychium and then glide down one side to the free edge. As you reach the free edge, twist the brush slightly and flick the hairs along the first half of the edge toward the centre which will 'seal' it. Lift the brush and repeat on the opposite side of the nail, flicking the brush again along the first half of the edge toward the centre which will 'seal' it. Make your final stroke of the brush down the centre of the nail. In the manner described apply ONE THIN LAYER to each nail and free edge of all 5 nails of one hand.
OK ... some large nails require maybe another stroke and some weeny nails may require less ... ADAPT.
4. Cure all five fingers together for 10 seconds in the CND UV Lamp. Repeat the process on the other hand.
NOTE: Use only the CND UV Lamp (or the former Brisa UV Lamp) to cure Shellac. Only by using the UV Lamp made to go with the system can you guarantee the flawless two week results and perfect curing.
NOTE: If using the Brisa UV Lamp, apply and cure four fingers on each hand and then the thumbs.
NOTE: It is important to apply the Shellac Base Coat just as meticulously as if it were red polish and not to touch the skin.
NOTE: A light touch with the brush when polishing is so important for that smooth shiny professional finish. Never drag the brush along the nail if you want the result to be flawless.
NOTE: Try to learn the method of 'sealing' the free edge as described above and avoid using the brush to cap the whole free edge in a separate stroke as this will cause an unsightly build up of Shellac at the free edge.
NOTE: Hold each finger in a manner that pulls the skin away from the nail plate side walls (it is especially important to do this for clients with deep side walls).
SHELLAC UV COLOUR COAT APPLICATION
1. Agitate the Shellac bottle to blend by tapping it against the palm of your hand and turning the bottle as you do do.
2. Remove the brush from the bottle, in the same manner as described above, and Apply one VERY THIN layer of colour to the surface of each nail and free edge of all five nails on one hand (also in the exact same manner as described above). Make sure you follow the Base Coat layer exactly.
NOTE: This layer of colour will be slightly semi-sheer if applied CORRECTLY; it may look streaky. This is normal and the second coat will always give full coverage. Do not try to get full coverage with your first coat.
3. Cure all five fingers together for 2 minutes (120 seconds) in the CND UV Lamp. Repeat the process on the other hand.
4. Apply a second thin colour coat to the surface and free edge of all five nails using the same process. This second coat will provide full coverage if using an opaque colour.
5. Cure all five fingers together for 2 minutes (120 seconds) in the CND UV Lamp.
6. Repeat the process on the other hand.
NOTE: Keep it THIN to WIN is the 'key' to perfect Shellac application. Apply colour in thin layers will ensure that you avoid 'pooling', avoid shrinking at the free edge and 'wrinkling' (from under curing) and that the result will be best possible finished look. THIN does not mean skimpy; just a normal thin coverage as you would do with polish.
SHELLAC UV TOP COAT APPLICATION
1. Agitate the bottle to blend as described above.
2. Remove the brush from the bottle using circular movements around the inside of the neck of the bottle as you pull it out (away from you), so as to remove any excess Top Coat from the shaft of the brush which might flood it as you are working.
3. Apply one THIN coat to the surface of each nail and free edge of all five nails on one hand in the exact same manner as described above. Make sure you cover the colour Coat Layer so that it is all encased in the UV Top Coat.
4. Cure all five fingers together for 2 minutes (120 seconds) in the CND UV Lamp.
5. Repeat the process on the other hand.
6. Remove the top sticky layer (the inhibition layer) with a lint free pad soaked in **D-Sperse IPA solution.
**Note: Never use Scrub Fresh to remove the inhibition layer of Shellac; it will break down the product.
7. Condition the finished nails with SolarOil and send a bottle home with the client for daily conditioning.
8. Pre-book your client for a re-Shellac in 2-3 weeks.
PS Follow the same guidelines for applying Shellac Colour Coat System to TOES.