Axiom
Well-Known Member
HARD WAX HINTS AND TIPS
The following hints and techniques refer specifically to new generation hard waxes. Techniques should be fairly universal but each brand will have its own unique quirks and application methods; dont be afraid to experiment to find out what works best with your particular product.
WHAT IS HARD WAX?
You may have heard it referred to as non-strip wax, peelable wax, film wax or hot wax. Traditional hot wax is applied in a thick layer or built up over several layers, usually in a figure-of-eight pattern to ensure a thorough coating of all hairs. It is left to cool and harden on the skin, firmly encapsulating each hair as it dries; the cooled wax is then removed by hand, taking the hair with it.
New generation non-strip waxes share these unique shrinkwrapping abilities of older hot waxes but are lower in temperature, easier to apply and stay flexible as they cool, making them much more comfortable for the client and an ideal choice for removing short, coarse and stubborn hairs anywhere on the body.
INGREDIENTS
The base ingredients of hard wax include beeswax, rosin (treated pine resin) and microcrystalline waxes (derived from petroleum), to which various other ingredients may be added to alter the consistency, flexibility and melting point of the final product.
Typical additions include emollients (such as lanolin and vegetable or mineral oils), thickeners (e.g. paraffin), plant extracts with various soothing and antimicrobial properties (e.g. tea tree, lavender, rose and chamomile), fragrance and colouring agents. New generation hard waxes may also contain synthetic rosins and elastomers, for increased pliability of the cooled wax.
Hard wax is available in pellets, bricks and diskettes for ease of melting, allowing the wax pot to be topped up as needed throughout the day.
THE GOLDEN RULES
PRE-WAX OIL
This is one of the best-kept secrets in the waxing world!
Always use oil under your hard wax, regardless of the brand. Unlike powder, this creates a lipid barrier between the wax and skin that makes removal a lot easier for you and the whole experience more comfortable for your client.
WAX APPLICATION AND REMOVAL
If you are unable to lift an edge to start your pull, use a clean spatula to help with the initial flick.
You can also press the shiny, hair-free side of a recently removed piece of wax into a corner of wax still on the body to give yourself a handle to pull from. This is a great technique when hair grows in multiple directions and you are unable to overlap the lifting edge onto a patch of bare skin (e.g. the bikini line area, underarms, chest, etc).
If wax breaks or tears when you try to remove it, simply press the remainder back onto the skin and add more wax to thicken up any areas that need it.
To make for more efficient waxing, a second strip can be placed while the first is still setting. Good quality hard waxes will stay flexible as they cool, allowing multiple strips to be laid without fear of wax sticking to the skin or becoming too cold or brittle.
Dont pick!! To remove any wax residue on the skin, either use the shiny side of a recently removed strip to lift the remaining bits from the body, or massage an oil-based product into the skin to dissolve any leftover wax at the end of your service.
To get those last few short, stubborn hairs, use the Perron Rigot stepping technique (this will work with any brand, not just Perron Rigot):
Wax on!!
Andy
© Andy Rouillard 2007, all rights reserved.
The following hints and techniques refer specifically to new generation hard waxes. Techniques should be fairly universal but each brand will have its own unique quirks and application methods; dont be afraid to experiment to find out what works best with your particular product.
WHAT IS HARD WAX?
You may have heard it referred to as non-strip wax, peelable wax, film wax or hot wax. Traditional hot wax is applied in a thick layer or built up over several layers, usually in a figure-of-eight pattern to ensure a thorough coating of all hairs. It is left to cool and harden on the skin, firmly encapsulating each hair as it dries; the cooled wax is then removed by hand, taking the hair with it.
New generation non-strip waxes share these unique shrinkwrapping abilities of older hot waxes but are lower in temperature, easier to apply and stay flexible as they cool, making them much more comfortable for the client and an ideal choice for removing short, coarse and stubborn hairs anywhere on the body.
INGREDIENTS
The base ingredients of hard wax include beeswax, rosin (treated pine resin) and microcrystalline waxes (derived from petroleum), to which various other ingredients may be added to alter the consistency, flexibility and melting point of the final product.
Typical additions include emollients (such as lanolin and vegetable or mineral oils), thickeners (e.g. paraffin), plant extracts with various soothing and antimicrobial properties (e.g. tea tree, lavender, rose and chamomile), fragrance and colouring agents. New generation hard waxes may also contain synthetic rosins and elastomers, for increased pliability of the cooled wax.
Hard wax is available in pellets, bricks and diskettes for ease of melting, allowing the wax pot to be topped up as needed throughout the day.
THE GOLDEN RULES
- Modern hard waxes are applied warm, not hot (37-45°C), and should have the consistency of golden syrup or thick paint when at the correct temperature.
- Use oil under your hard wax rather than powder this creates a lipid barrier that prevents wax from adhering to the skin.
- Use a medium-firm pressure with your spatula to ensure wax is pressed all the way down to the skin.
- The edges of your strip need to be slightly thicker to prevent it from breaking during removal.
- The stronger and denser the hair, the thicker your layer of wax needs to be.
- Use smaller, narrow strips (no wider than an inch) when working over sensitive areas, dense hair growth or loose skin.
- Apply wax with the direction of hair growth and remove against.
- Stretch the skin at every stage of application and removal.
PRE-WAX OIL
This is one of the best-kept secrets in the waxing world!
Always use oil under your hard wax, regardless of the brand. Unlike powder, this creates a lipid barrier between the wax and skin that makes removal a lot easier for you and the whole experience more comfortable for your client.
- Some waxing lines include a specific pre-depilatory oil, but any light massage oil will do the trick.
- You want just a light sheen on the skin remember, youre not dressing a salad! After your normal pre-wax cleanse, rub a few drops of oil between the palms of your hands and apply to the clients skin.
- If you use too much oil the wax will slide about and wont stick to anything. If this happens, dont panic simply blot the excess with a tissue and try again.
- You can add more oil as needed throughout the waxing service if the skin becomes dry.
- You can also use oil under any type and brand of soft wax - try it!
WAX APPLICATION AND REMOVAL
- After cleansing and oiling the skin, get a ball of wax on the end of your spatula and apply to the skin in the direction of hair growth, swirling back on yourself at the end to create a lip that you can then lift for removal.
- For large areas (e.g. legs) or areas with sparse hair growth: strips are long and wide, and the wax is applied relatively thinly. The dried wax can be removed gently.
- For sensitive areas, loose skin or when working over short, coarse or dense hair growth: strips are narrower and wax is applied thicker. Apply in smaller sections, and remove wax quickly and firmly.
- In all cases: the edges of your wax need to be slightly thicker so that it doesnt break when you come to remove it.
- Use a medium-firm pressure with your spatula to ensure wax is pressed all the way down to the skin and coats every hair thoroughly.
- You need only apply one layer of wax.
- At the right temperature, most modern non-strip waxes take less than a minute to set. The surface of the hardened wax will go slightly dull and lose its stickiness, yet still remain pliable when it is ready to come off.
- If the wax is gummy or stretches when you try to remove it, it needs longer to set press the strip back down and wait another few seconds before trying again.
- Be firm and fast when flicking up a corner to start your pull.
- Wherever possible, the edge where you start your lift should overlap onto a hair-free area of skin. This makes it easier for you and more comfortable for your client when it comes to flicking up that first corner.
- If working with a long strip, dont pull it all off at once; this makes it difficult to keep the skin taut along the entire length of the pull. Instead, remove in several sections and re-brace the skin at every step of the way.
If you are unable to lift an edge to start your pull, use a clean spatula to help with the initial flick.
You can also press the shiny, hair-free side of a recently removed piece of wax into a corner of wax still on the body to give yourself a handle to pull from. This is a great technique when hair grows in multiple directions and you are unable to overlap the lifting edge onto a patch of bare skin (e.g. the bikini line area, underarms, chest, etc).
If wax breaks or tears when you try to remove it, simply press the remainder back onto the skin and add more wax to thicken up any areas that need it.
To make for more efficient waxing, a second strip can be placed while the first is still setting. Good quality hard waxes will stay flexible as they cool, allowing multiple strips to be laid without fear of wax sticking to the skin or becoming too cold or brittle.
Dont pick!! To remove any wax residue on the skin, either use the shiny side of a recently removed strip to lift the remaining bits from the body, or massage an oil-based product into the skin to dissolve any leftover wax at the end of your service.
To get those last few short, stubborn hairs, use the Perron Rigot stepping technique (this will work with any brand, not just Perron Rigot):
- Apply your wax against the direction of hair growth and allow to dry.
- Stretch the skin taut, as close to the lifting edge of the wax as possible.
- Grip your wax firmly and remove with the direction of growth.
- Instead of removing the wax in one swift motion, remove slowly in several tiny steps, re-bracing the skin at every step of the way.
Wax on!!
Andy
© Andy Rouillard 2007, all rights reserved.
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